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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2009 10:39 am 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood

Joined: Wed Aug 04, 2004 11:10 pm
Posts: 302
Location: castle rock, colorado
so I took the colt out yesterday to possibly got put on the turbo at eric's house and picked up a few parts this week I need to put on. I was on my way down there and decided to try and see if I could stall the car up because it has been a while since I had really tried it again. so I pull over on the side of the road and give it a shot....... it starts to stall gets to its usual 2300 and then it just kept climbing 2500 (I am thinking dang that a bit higher than usual, 8) ) then 2800 and even faster 3200 and I came off the brakes. the thing domes out of the hole harder than it ever has and not the usual bog then take off, I am certain I lit up all four. I think that it may have stepped out a little in the back :D . This was all with the bottle off too, I cant imagine what it would have been with the bottle. The 1-2 shift was so fast I could not even see the tach I just nailed the button. After coming down from my best launch ever, I was thinking what would have caused it to finally stall that high.... well I thought of a couple of things one when I used to launch with the bottle on I would go 95-99 % throttle so that once the light changed go full throttle and then the bottle would come on (using the N20 control on link 0 mph, 2k to 7.5k, 100%, -2or 3 degrees of timing), so maybe not going full throttle really played a huge part of the motor needing the full throttle the way it was tuned, part throttle timing? Maybe the tq converter has finally loosened up a bit and allows the 16g to build boost. anyone else have any ideas? the thing is though that I have tried going full throttle to build boost in the past and it really did nothing over 2300. I tried it twice more on the way home and got easily to 2800 and then let off the brakes and took off. anyone else have any on what else might have caused it.

I also need some help deciding what size line to run for the 50 trim it is a pte 50 trim non ball bearing and the kit I got from extremepsi.com. they have a -4 feed with a -10 return, but stock Oil pressure is like max of 80, I am at that by 3k full throttle and peg the 100psi gauge by 5k. I know that will push the seals out of the turbo easily I dont have the BS in my motor and am going to try and port the OFH to lower it, anyone else have any ideas or maybe reducing it to a -3 feed line and restrict it that way instead of porting the OFH.
sorry for the long post.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2009 4:55 pm 
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Some call me a god
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Joined: Wed Jun 02, 2004 11:32 pm
Posts: 1470
Location: Castle cock, CO
Good to hear your driving it again looks like you quit being a sissy and figured out how to launch it...You should go the 20th the fastest csm's in co will be there along with a sick red 1g...I have read alot about the feed lines i would go with the -4 off the ofh and restrictor .100....I heard it was the way to go just make sure it gets plenty of oil i messed 2 turbos up with lack of oil i will be going to a -4 feed and .078 restrictor off the ofh i was told by my turbo builder that would be the way to go for my 60-1 and having no bs....


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2009 6:32 pm 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood

Joined: Wed Aug 04, 2004 11:10 pm
Posts: 302
Location: castle rock, colorado
where do you get the restrictors?


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2009 6:39 pm 
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Some call me a god
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Location: Castle cock, CO
per tek it's of jordan rd just south of arapahoe rd....Also you could just use an an fitting and grind the front down flat and use a nitrous fitting...


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 09, 2009 12:10 am 
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1595 cc's of fury

Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2003 3:15 pm
Posts: 1616
Location: Rastle Cock, CO
Damn nice news Paul, shoot...3,200 stall will probably spool that 50 trim too and add the nitrous in the equation and hold the hell on! You are ruining my sleeper vote with stories like this...now everyone knows. :butthead:


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:44 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 05, 2004 5:13 pm
Posts: 198
Location: Arvada.Co
Hey paul my talon was the same way for about a year then all of a sudden i was able to stall out to 3600-3800 i just think the converter loosenes up plus the more power the higher the stall it is the stock converter right ?


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 09, 2009 2:28 pm 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood

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Location: castle rock, colorado
supposedly a stock rebuit one i guess.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 09, 2009 8:49 pm 
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Some call me a god

Joined: Thu May 05, 2005 2:31 am
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Location: Commerce City, Co
Hea paul, from what I have understood over the years, the ecu is in full closed loop anything over 92% throttle. That was coming from Tom and Dave. So the 95-99% should not make a difference over say 100%.

Are you using antilag at all when you stall? I know that is common practice among some auto guys. I know Kiggly has been doing it for some time now.

I think you guys are on the right track though. The converter is finally loosening up or failing(lets hope not) and the car can get on the converter like it should have been all along.

Is it possible to spray it to flash it up on the converter and then turn the nitrous off on the line? And then maybe turn it back on down the track some where? I am not sure dsmlink can do this, but maybe just set it up with a simple switch. These ideas are more for the 50 trim, as a 16g should stall up with just dsmlink alone.

Maybe you can share with us what you have experimented with. A few extra brains and eyes in the mix never hurt.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:48 pm 
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Some call me a god
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Location: Castle cock, CO
I know when we first were playing with it the antilag didn't do jack for him but i don't know what he's done lately....I think he had a tight converter it had a hard time getting boost from the 16g when he stalled it maybe it might be loosening up....Should be interesting how the 50trim reacts.....


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 3:38 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 19, 2002 7:00 pm
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Location: Denton, Tx
one of my local guys here has an auto awd dsm with a fp3575 on a stock converter and a 50 shot.

even with nitrous he couldn't get it to stall above 2600 rpm, even with anti lag. (not anti lag and n20 together, thats a bomb waiting to happen)

he backed out about 3 degrees of timing at 2600 to 3300 rpm and with the 50 shot was able to spool boost in and take it to 3800 rpm on stock converter, and actually launch the car at near full boost.

(he used to run 14's at 127 mph, but hasn't been back to track since)

you mentioned you had it setup for nitrous to take timing out at full throttle, was that selection turned off in dsmlink or was just the nitrous turned off ? a few people on link have found that by taking some timing out off boost they were able to spool the turbo faster, (as opposed to the adding timing, run leaner thought process from years past) as it leaves more heat in the exhaust to spool turbo easier.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 8:25 am 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood

Joined: Wed Aug 04, 2004 11:10 pm
Posts: 302
Location: castle rock, colorado
Quote:
one of my local guys here has an auto awd dsm with a fp3575 on a stock converter and a 50 shot.

even with nitrous he couldn't get it to stall above 2600 rpm, even with anti lag. (not anti lag and n20 together, thats a bomb waiting to happen)

he backed out about 3 degrees of timing at 2600 to 3300 rpm and with the 50 shot was able to spool boost in and take it to 3800 rpm on stock converter, and actually launch the car at near full boost.

(he used to run 14's at 127 mph, but hasn't been back to track since)

you mentioned you had it setup for nitrous to take timing out at full throttle, was that selection turned off in dsmlink or was just the nitrous turned off ? a few people on link have found that by taking some timing out off boost they were able to spool the turbo faster, (as opposed to the adding timing, run leaner thought process from years past) as it leaves more heat in the exhaust to spool turbo easier.
I have it setup to turn on the bottle and back off timing every time I go full throttle, but the arming switch needs to to be on to actually have the solenoids turn on.
Quote:
Hea paul, from what I have understood over the years, the ecu is in full closed loop anything over 92% throttle. That was coming from Tom and Dave. So the 95-99% should not make a difference over say 100%.

Are you using antilag at all when you stall? I know that is common practice among some auto guys. I know Kiggly has been doing it for some time now.

I think you guys are on the right track though. The converter is finally loosening up or failing(lets hope not) and the car can get on the converter like it should have been all along.

Is it possible to spray it to flash it up on the converter and then turn the nitrous off on the line? And then maybe turn it back on down the track some where? I am not sure dsmlink can do this, but maybe just set it up with a simple switch. These ideas are more for the 50 trim, as a 16g should stall up with just dsmlink alone.

Maybe you can share with us what you have experimented with. A few extra brains and eyes in the mix never hurt.
last time we did try the anti lag and what i have seen other people deal with is that antilag does not work that well with auto's. from what i remember they need they need the tq to get it up on the converter and when you use the antilag it takes away tq. i could be wrong but that is why it does not work that well on the auto's without a crazy loose tq converter.
I have thought about using it to flash the converter as well but was going to try that once i get the 50 trim on and go from there. I figure if i can get it out of the hole with a 1.6 60 ' (I can dream cant I) that would be an easy 10.


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