4g61t.org

Why do you want to rebuild the engine? Does it burn oil? If it doesn't, then don't invest in a rebuild. It's better to invest that money in a 4G63T.

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Got rabies?

It is not burning oil, for the oil consumption it's nothing. I mean, I am not adding any oil til my next change-oil and everytime I check oil-level once a week, it's still the same. The only reason why I want to rebuild the engine is, it's been running for more than 10 years and haven't change any internal parts, I'm hoping/excited that I can bring back the Torque again like a new engine, and I can race it if I want to, now I'm worried to race maybe something goes wrong inside the engine while I'm driving it.

Actually, sometimes it's nice to drive this car but sometimes I can feel that engine is not running well, because if I am reversing it for parking, the RPM goes up & down while I am turning the steering wheel, what do you think is the problem? And, I can hear some noise on the valve-cover recently, that's why I am thinking maybe I need to change the Hydraulic Valve-lifter, and to the area of Timing-belt cover I can hear some noise, last time I tried to remove all the belts and run the engine few seconds, the engine is running very quiet,what do you think? Another thing is, is it normal that the RPM goes down to 500-700 rapidly everytime I shift gears? I think it should be hold a couple of seconds where you step on the clutch pedal before going down, right?

Bad news is, engine swapping is not allowed here in my area, that's why I can not change my engine to 4G63T even I want to. So, my last resort is to SEll this car or REBUILD the engine, What do you think?


NAMRON
88 COLT GTi-16v

To bring back original engine power, change all fluids and clean everything. Maybe using Mopar Combustion Chamber Conditioner will all the work for you, w/o a total rebuild. Regarding MCCC look at http://www.VFAQ.com or http://www.dsm.org, they're having instruction on its use. Hint: What applies to the 4G63, also usually applies to the 4G61. Those two sites carry great info!

If you have power steering, this change in engine speed you noticed is perfectly normal, as the engine has to do more work to turn the P/S pump.

As you heard some noise from the valve cover, that may also be the injectors. The hydraulic lash adjusters make the car sound like a Diesel when they're bad. You could try a thinner (i.e. 5W-40) or thicker (i.e. 10W-40) oil, or a bit more oil than usual, and look if this sound disappears (it probably will).

Regarding the belts: don't worry. If they are tight enough and there is still noise, try cleaning and degreasing their pulleys.

When driving and depressing the clutch, it is perfectly normal for the engine to drop to idle speed (700 revs). The 4G61 will do this even faster than the 4G63, as it has a smaller stroke.

Phew, I hope I answered everything here. Don't get too exited that your car may have some engine troubles. Go and take it for a nice 500 Km highway trip at a steady speed, you'll see it will be like new after that.

_________________
Got rabies?

I'm very SORRY for giving you the headache about my car, THANK YOU VERY MUCH! But, I'm still have some questions, before that, to be honest with you, I can have a smile now in my face about my car. Because I knew that there's a lot of nice & expert people like you who could help me about this type of engine. It's really nice to know people like you!!!

By the way, is it normal for the RPM goes up & down if you drive the car right away and did not wait the engine to reach the normal operating temperature?

Where do you think can I buy this MCCC? Is there any alternatives in case I can not find it here in my place?

What is the Part # of that K&N Air filter that some people are using? Because I tried to order on K&N website and they said they don't have this filter for this 4G61 engine.

Best Regards,

NAMRON
88 COLT GTi-16v

Hey buddy, no problem!

It is normal for the car to run like a grandmother when the coolant and oil are still cold. It is annoying, I know...

As for MCCC, I never bought it. I remember dsm.org had its Mitsubishi order number in the 1000AAQ section.

I *think* then number for the filter was K&N E-2875. It is the same as for the 4G15.

_________________
Got rabies?

Hi! I already found that Diagnostic port last night, and this morning I cleaned my Air cleaner w/ high pressure air & Intake manifold w/ injector cleaner.

Then, I put everything back & started my car and Rev it to 7000RPM, there's a lot of black/white smoke coming out thru the exhaust pipe and I drove my car going back home.

I keep on observing the car while driving and I noticed that it runs well & no hesitation on overtakes & sudden stop, I mean,I'm always taking a look to my RPM gauge while shifting gears and seems to me that it's working Normal now without hunting of the position. Is this true or only psychological effect after cleaning the injector? Possibly my injectors need a regular cleaning, right? Have you tried to remove all the injectors & clean it one by one? How about removing the whole intake manifold & clean it? In adjusting the camshaft-sensor to advance the timing, do I also need to fool the ECU? What are the symptoms if I have a fault in one of the sensors of engine management like TPS, Idle-control, MAP sensor? Is there any sensor in turning the steering wheel? Because, seems to me that the ups & down of my RPM is very noticeable if turning on reverse and my car stall when I step accelerator & release while turning the steering wheel for reverse, RPM drops all the way to zero, engine quit.

You are right about the engine oil that I'm using, So, on my next change oil I will use 5w-40w to minimize some noise.By the way, how many years you've been driving your car? What are your Maintenance Schedule? Have you done some engine modifications? I like one picture here that he changed the camshaft pulley to Blue color? Where do you think he bought those stuff?

I am also browsing COLTMANIA and I like some car in there, which is your car? I ask some of the car owners but they can not speak english, that's why I'm very much happy to know you!!!! YOU REALLY HELP ME A LOT! And I can feel that this is a very good website,so many things I learned & very informative about the car as the name implies (MIRAGE TURBO/COLT).

Personal question if you don't mind, are you really from Germany? Because I am not really from MACAU, CHINA. I'm only working here for the meantime.

Thanks & Regards,

NAMRON
88 COLT GTi-16v

Good work!
7000 REVS! Ahhhrgh! No wonder you're thinking about a rebuild. Don't rev your engine that high if there isn't a serious need to do so, and especially not when the oil is still cold! You'll seize your engine in no time then.
If cleaning your injectors has helped that much - how about chaning the fuel filter?
No, in fact, you shouldn't do that too often. It can damage the fuel system (i.e. making gaskets brittle).
I've never cleaned my injectors so far, there was never the need to do so. So I can't speak from experience here. However, there are shops around that are spaciallized in cleaning injectors. So far, they dont take little money for it.
As far as cleaning the whole intake tract, this is a very good idea. Our cars are over 10 years old. The dirt accumulated there alone can be the cause for idle and drivability problems. While you at it, you should check the EGR and maybe install a blockoff-plate (may be illegal where you live).
You're actually fooling the ECU when advancing the timing w/ the CAS. The ECU thinks base timing is at 5 degrees, but can compensate for 3 to 7 degrees w/o any problems.
Actually, most of the time an error code for the respective sensor(s) will be thrown and the CEL illuminated. The 4G6x have a MAS/MAF rather than a MAP sensor.
Yes, there is such a sensor. It is a single wire that comes from the P/S pump. Seems like you should raise your idle speed a bit.
I've been driving my car for 2 years now. My maintenance shedule is the one specified by Mitsubishi. My only engine mod so far are a hacked MAS (to let in more air) and a home-made catch can.
I don't know where to get blue cam pulleys. Bushur Racing or RPW maybe...?
I don't have my car in coltmania's showroom. As it looks rather stock and those guys there are more interested in looks than in the car per se, my car would be considered too boring.
Hey no problem buddy. Don't forget I'm not the only one on this forum. Take a look around, here are so many cool & friendy guys around, I'm also happy to be on this board.
4G61T.COM RULES!
Yup, I'm really from Germany, even if I write rather good English. You should hear me speak it...

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Got rabies?

I REV to 7000RPM just to remove all the carbon deposit inside of the Intake manifold, and that is the instructions I read in the Injector cleaner that I bought. They said, instead of driving it fast or trying to reach the redline of RPM gauge,it's more safe to REV it in place & the cleaner will do the same work, which is I think more logical. But, on my normal driving going to work & back home, I always maintain my RPM to 2000-2500 sometimes 3000 if I want to race a little bit. I am planning to change my Fuel-Filter this weekend.

We're the same, the only modification I did to my car car is just cut the Air-Filter housing to give more air to the intake. Actually, I am thinking to replace 1 sensor at a time just to bring back the normal run of the engine, I'm also thinking about using MCCC. If the injector cleaning give me a good result, how much more if I removed carbon deposit inside the engine and I can enjoy myself more in driving this car. My only problem is, I don't know where to buy this stuff or I should find any alternatives. How about using Engine Flushing additives everytime I do the change-oil? Do you think this would help in removing/cleaning the internal parts of the engine? What is the time interval in cleaning the injectors using this spray can Injector cleaner in order not to harm the gaskets?

Why is it illegal to block EGR in some other country? How do they know if we block EGR? What is the effect? Because I am thinking to block my EGR, that's why I want to know the advantage & disadvantage. Do I need some necessary adjustment after blocking EGR?

I've been driving my car for 3 years and until now I still need to do so many things to the engine in order to feel the Power of being DOHC and enjoy driving it. Where did you get Maintenance Schedule specified by Mitsubishi? Because I am thinking to replace my Spark-plug at this time and don't know what plug is good for this engine,thinking to use a better one Platinum instead of ordinary NGK,what do you think?

Have you visit the COLTCO website? I like the red color with a black hood, that is same with my car here. The only difference are the wheels, I'm using 14" white color mags, the one on the pic is 15" semi-black mags. I am thinking to replace my lowering spring to the HARD, because now I am using Whiteline suspension but it hits my fender if I have passenger at the back. Do you know where can I buy good brand of Lowering-spring?

I knew that there are so many people on this site, but you are the only ONE gets interested to HELP ME about my problem on this type of car which is Limited Edition on our place. Hopefully you won't get bored as well about fixing some problems to my car.


NORMAN
88 COLT GTi-16v

Hey you could improve your mileage if you shift up at ~3000 revs. Don't worry, that engine was buildt for such revs. Just don't get too exited when the oil is still cold (as a rule of thumb, it is warm after continous driving for about 10 miles).

Regarding MCCC (and most of your other questions) VFAQ.com and dsm.org will answer almost all of your questions. I forgot what Mitsubishi order number MCCC was and how exactly to apply it, but it was a dificult procedure, where it is sucked in via the PCV. Can easily destroy your engine when not done right.
Those two websites are the way to go.
Oh and don't use injector cleaner all the time. Two or three times at all.

Personally, I wouldn't trust those oil flush additives. Use brand oil of high quality & brand oil filters and you'll probably never have any problems. You should use semi-synthetic oils, as the fully synthetic ones could eat carbon deposits on and between engine gaskets, making them leak (that engine is already 12 years old). However, if you really want to rebuild your engine in the future, you can use synthetic oil.

Regarding the EGR, this thing is used to lower NOx emissions, but increases HC and CO emissions. When it bocomes old, it can cause problems as bad idle, low mileage and stuff like that. If NOx emmissions aren't tested in your area, I don't think they worry about a blocked-off EGR. Again, There were some procedures outlined on the web. search for "EGR blockoff" in google, should yield the right result.


Spark plug life is IIRC 3 years/90000 Km for standard and 6 years/180000 for platinum. However, Platinum plugs cause weaker sparks, making you loose power if the ignition wasn't buildt for it. Use the standard plugs, they are worth it. I can recommend Bosch W7DC regapped to 1.0 - 1.1 mm. They don't have a resistor (good) as in i.e. WR7DC but have a too small gap, 0.7 mm (bad). Just regap them to 1.0 mm and you'll never want any other sort of plugs again.


Yea, I visited the coltco site. Great stuff there. Maybe I get rich someday and slap in a EVO I-III engine in my Colt. As for suspensions, I don't have the slightest clue which one is good or bad. AFAIK there were never (m)any suspensions made for the GTi, so you'll probably have to adapt 1G Eclipse parts.


Oh and the cause I help you and not may other people from this site is, I know Colt GTis rather good, and those other guys here don't seem to realize it's nothing more than a Mirage turbo stripped off the turbo.

_________________
Got rabies?

Actually, you were doing such a good job, there was no reason for anyone else to contribute anything more!

Hi to Everybody!

I tried to adjust the Idling of my car this morning after replacing Fuel-filter, I followed the procedures outline in vfaq.com 1G BISS Adjustment procedures.

Here are the scenarios:

1. Start the engine and wait for normal operating temp, lights, cooling fan, accessories are OFF. Tranny & steering wheel are NEUTRAL.
2. Ground the ignition timing adjustment plug somewhere in the intake-manifold, engine STOP. Start again, NO-HELP.
3. Turn the BISS screw counterclockwise, try to start, engine START at 1500 RPM.
4. Ground the diagnostic plug terminal 10 somewhere in the chassis, RPM moving up & down between 1500-1300 RPM.
5. Turn BISS screw clockwise & slowly until RPM is 1100, adjust again down to 800 RPM.
6. Shut-Off engine and removed the wire from the Diagnostic-plug & Ignition-timing.
7. Start the engine, RPM 750-800 hunting in between and let idle for 5 mins.

QUESTIONS:

1. Did I adjust it properly?
2. What is the next thing I should check & adjust to confirm all related sensors to Idling are all working properly?
3. Where is this Idle-switch? How to check/adjust it?

Anyway, the improvement I felt in driving my car back home are;

1. No dragging on the first gear.
2. Engine not stalling in reverse for parking.

OK, for some of you guys out there, I'll keep on posting my observations about my car til tomorrow and I NEED ALL YOUR HELP to improve my engine performance.

NAMRON
88 COLT GTi-16V

So you grounded the ignition timing adjustmesnt connector, and the engine stalled? This is NOT normal. Seems like you should check and maybe adjust your base timing. There's a VFAQ on that, too.

To answer your questions:
1. If the idle speed is between 750 and 950 revs, you adjusted it right.
2. I'd check the base timing, as I already said above. Also the idle switch and the Throttle Position Sensor (see below)
3. The idle switch is hidden under a black rubber cap w/ one thick black wire comming off of it. To find it, look at your throttle cable @ the throttle body, it will end in this coily thingy. There's the idle switch located.
For a better explanation and procedures, look (again ) at
http://www.ecanfix.com/users/manualcd/gift/dsm/. The file "1g_tps_complete_info.pdf" should contain all you need. That whole directory on that server is soooo great! They have lots of factory manual scans there, probably you'll find everything else you need to know there. Hopefully you have some sord of cable/ADSL connection...

_________________
Got rabies?

I drove my car today and I observed that the RPM is in between 750-900.
What do you think is the best thing I should check next Idle-switch or TPS?
I do not know what is this Tachometer looks like, do i need to buy 1 for myself or any other form will do? How to check Base-Timing? By using Timing-Light and adjust the camshaft-sensor? Pls. I need more info!


NAMRON
88 COLT GTi-16V

Perfect!
If they're OK and the timing is within spec, I'd take a look at the O2 sensor and the ECU (could have bad caps).
The tach already installed in your car is precise enough to adjust the idle speed. So you don't need to go out and buy one and can invest those $$$ in some fuel or something.
Exactly! I think VFAQ.com has a good article how to do that. Basically, there is some sort of panel next to the crank pulley. It is marked "10 5 TDC", meaning 10 deg. crank angle, 5 deg. crank angle and Top Dead Center (0 deg). On the pulley is a marker. When installing the timing-light, it will flash whenever the first cylinder receives spark, illuminating that panel and the marker. Therefore, you can see the timing by looking where that marker is relative to the panel.
I hope this was somewhat understandable, I don't know how to explain it any better.

_________________
Got rabies?

I still observed my car in going back home from work, and I noticed that RPM is still dropping down on a sudden release of the accelerator.
What do you think? I am thinking to check the Closed Throttle Position Switch, it seems that Throttle valve is not hitting the switch when I released the accelerator.

I found last time in vfaq.com the procedure in adjusting this Throttle Position Switch but, I can't find it now. Do you know where they post the procedures in adjusting this Throttle Position Switch & TPS?

NAMRON
88 COLT GTi-16V