4g61t.org

Once again, THANK YOU VERY MUCH for your helping effort to renew a good performance of my car.

Actually, I've got a chance to browse the topics about the ECU and I learned that most of the symptoms are happening to my car at the moment, so I decided not to use my car in going to work today.

But, the only thing I can not find is all about this Vehicle-Speed sensor that I want to replace as well. Do you have any illustrations about this sensor?

Do you think it's possible that the previous owner of this car had been tampered the ECU or installed a different one? Or, there's no way they can do that?


NAMRON
88 COLT GTi-16V

The vehicle speed sensor is located inside the instrument cluster. I've never opened up one. I also don't know what this thing looks like inside. Maybe someone elso who installed different gauge faces knows? As a simple check, I'd tap into the Vehicle Speed Sensor line on the ECU harness with a small speaker and put the other termial of the speaker to ground. Everytime the VSS does something ( the car is moving), there should be a click from the speaker. The ECU harness pinout is the same for the Colt GTi and the '90 DSM non-turbo. Again, VFAQ should have a pinout.

The previous owner could have rather easily installed a different ECU. Maybe one w/ the wrong revision out of another GTi. However, it seems more probable he installed a '91+ ECU that has the idle switch on pin 14 instead of 6. This could explain the stalling.
BTW does anybody know, if a car could start and run w/o the idle switch connected?

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Got rabies?

Hi! Last night I tried to figure out the diagnostic port and try to retrieve the faulty sensor by using this simple test light. But, I noticed that my Diagnostic port has only 3 pins, 1 on top-left corner & 2 on bottom right side.
I connect the wires on top left & lower right pin, then switch the ignition key- NO RESULT!
Connect wires on top left & next pin on lower right pin, then switch on- LIGHT BLINKING CONTINUOSLY (like A HEARTBEAT!)
So, I did not get any good result!!!
I started my car to charge the battery and it's one click start. But, as soon as the engine gets to 750-800 idling RPM, I noticed an occasionally shaking of the whole car, just like the car is moving forward & back. WHAT IS HAPPENING TO MY CAR???
I read other Mitsubishi shop manual and found where is this Vehicle Speed sensor located, you are RIGHT it's located on the instrument panel.

THANK YOU!!

NORMAN

The constant heart beat like blinking means no error codes stored.
Mooving back & forth? OOOPS!! Have you already looked at the clutch?
Cool, do they have an illustration of it?

BTW, today I called a buddy who has a GTi. We disconnected the idle switch, hooked up an LED to the purge control selenoid and a DMM to the O2 check connector. We drove around awhile having fun racing and noticed no different behaviour than normal. After connecting the idle switch again, the O2 and purge control readings were just the same. So does anybody know why the heck the idle switch is there when it doesn't serve any (conceivable) function?

So maybe the idle switch isn't that important, but the TPS is.

_________________
Got rabies?

YES, I've been relieved to heard that there's no ERROR stored to my ECU.

Even though I have'nt fixed my engine properly, I'm getting happy now. Because I'm learning so many things from YOU/ALL POSTERS on this site, I am gaining the confidence to fix my own car better than the mechanics here in our area. Actually, to learn How to read error stored in ECU by using self made test lamp is a big thing for me.And, almost everyday I keep on reading the Mitsubishi GALANT Shop Manual of my co-worker at work, always getting some ideas on how to check some of the sensors.

So, tomorrow I will do the adjustment of the cable, idle-switch & TPS in one time. I mean, not like before, I only adjust the cable and everything are messed up, and the cable is connected to throttle-lever which is coupled to TPS & Idle switch. I can feel that I can fix this Idling problem. My question is, What is the Normal position or factory setting of Throttle valve, FULLY CLOSED or PARTIALLY OPEN? I noticed that, as long as I am pulling the accelerator-cable, the throttle lever is opening too much & losing signal to TPS & Idle switch.

So, tomorrow I will loosen the tension to accelerator cable, loosen the Idle switch & TPS. Then, I will set properly first the Idle switch, put a little tension on the cable, then adjust the TPS by using multimeter.

I read some stories on this site from people having the same problem like mine, they said that they just only replace CAS and their car runs like a CHAMP, how I wish that time will come I can also say that my car runs like a CHAMP!!


Best Regards,

NAMRON
88 COLT GTi-16V

Hey cool! Keep up that reading! It's the best way to learn stuff. I remember that feeling when I first hooked up a home-made error code reader and actually found out what was wrong! It's sooo cool! And it's really great you have finally access to a good shop manual.
Seems like you're making great progress w/ the throttle issues. The throttle plate BTW is opened just a small amount when the accellerator isn't depressed. I think when it was fully closed, the screw adjusting it then has to be turned 2 1/4 turns in the direction that opens it.

I'm sure your car will run like a champ in the near future. Damn, it's so cool you're getting that car to run!

_________________
Got rabies?

Everyday I am always getting excited in waiting for your reply......seems that I almost there to put everything back to normal into my car...

And these are the things I did to my car yesterday;

ENGINE NOT RUNNING
1. Loosen the accelerator cable and let the cable moves back freely.
2. Loosen lock nut of Closed-Throttle position switch then screw out the sensor itself til throttle valve hits fully closed.
3. Check continuity of Closed Throttle position switch using multimeter - results NO CONTINUITY, WHY?
4. Check continuity of Harness - results NO CONTINUITY, WHY??
5. Screw in back Closed Throttle position switch to the specified position til it touch throttle lever and turn 15/16 as per VFAQ.

ENGINE RUNNING
6. Start the engine - IDLING 750-800RPM.
7. Connect Harness to Closed Throttle Position switch - NO EFFECT!
8. Disconnect Harness - NO EFFECT! Connect Harness to switch.
9. Check Base Timing using timing light - OUT OF SPECIFICATIONS!
10. Shut-off engine and connect the grounding wires to ignition timing & diagnostic port - start the engine - RPM HIGH!!! WHY??
11. Check Base-Timing while adjusting Camshaft sensor until I saw 5 deg BTDC, let engine Idle for a few minutes then TURN-OFF engine.
12. Disconnect two grounding wires and start the engine - ENIGINE WON'T START!!!! WHY???
13. Loosen the BISS and start again - ENGINE START AT HIGH REV! turn OFF engine.
14. Connect two grounding wires again and start the engine - engine start still on High Rev.
15. Adjust the BISS TIL i GOT 750-800RPM, let engine Idle for a few minutes then TURN-OFF.
16. Disconnect grounding wires and start the engine - ENGINE START TO 1100-1200 RPM, WHY???
17. Check Base Timing - OUT OF SPECIFICATIONS MORE THAN 10 deg BTDC, WHY???

I'M REALLY GETTING CRAZZZZZZY WITH THIS CAR!!!!!!!!!! PLEASE I NEED ALL YOUR HELP VERY BADLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Drive the car back home HOPING that the Idling will be back to 750-800RPM, But to NO AVAIL.
After parking I removed the contact of Closed-Throttle Position switch to Throttle lever, RPM STILL THE SAME 1100-1200.

Why IDLING & BASE-TIMING setting is always changing after disconnecting the grounding wires? WHAT IS WRONG??????

NORMAN
88 COLT GTi-16V

When the grounding wire isn't connected, base timing will jump to 16 degrees (or somewhere in that magnitude). This is the principle of base timing. The ECU adjusts timing from there. If you have base timing at 5 degs and normal timing at idle, say 16 degs, increasing or decreasing base timing will increase or decrease normal timing. I.e. increasing base idle to 7 degs will increase normal timing to 16+2=18 degrees. As long as you have 5 degrees w/ both grounding wires connected (or was it one?), everything is ok. So don't worry, looks like everything is in order with your car. What was base timing before you adjusted it?
Oh, please look how many wires have to be connected to what. I can't remember anymore.

Good work with the accelerator cable! It seems like you should adjust idle now. to 850 +- 100 revs now, then you're set.
I also don't understand this closed throttle switch stuff. But on my buddy's GTi, it behaved just the same way you described. Damn...

_________________
Got rabies?

The Base Timing before I adjusted it is nowhere, I mean I can not find it on the timing mark. Yes, I connected two(2) grounding wires.

I observed my car again today, and this morning when I started it the RPM goes to 2200-2400 while warming-up, Is this Normal or Too High rev for a cold start???
As soon as the engine is getting hotter, RPM is keep on going down to 1100-1200, Do I really need to wait the operating temperature to rise-up before driving the car or slow moving after 30 secs is enough???

Now I keep on thinking on How can I lower the RPM to 850-900, adjust TPS, BISS or let accelerator cable move back a little bit?????What is your suggested Base-Timing 5,6, or 7 deg BTDC???

So, can you say that I don't have any problem on Vehicle Speed Sensor?

The good news are;

1. I do not have a problem of car stalling.
( Is it not because of my Idling is too high? )
2. No more RPM hunting even I drove my car while the engine is still cold.
3. The car now runs easily, I mean engine is not working hard.

When I came home from work, I noticed that engine RPM now during parking is 1000, is this good or need to lower a little more?? This coming saturday I am planning to clean all my spark plugs, theres a little hesitation on acceleration. What kind of spark plug are you using?? Platinum or ordinary ? Can you give me the Part no.?
Do you know How to Clean & Check the injectors? Because I am thinking to do that by myself to improve engine performance, what do you think? 6 months ago I already replaced High Tension wires.


NAMRON
88 COLT GTi-16V

The timing being off can be causing problems with you idle. Fix that before trying to adjust your idle.

Yes, if your base timing is 5 degrees, try adjusting the idle using the BISS. Turning it in decreases idle speed, turning it out increases it. With the engine fully warmed up, the idle speed should be 850 revs.

2400 revs high idle speed is to fast. 1700-2000 is more appropiate.
You can start driving the car as soon as the engine is running.

But as your car doesn't stall anymore, I don't think the vehicle speed sensor is bad. We can say for sure when the idle is at 850 revs.

Regarding the spark plugs, never use platinum plugs, except when they're platinated on BOTH electrodes (so don't use Bosch). As for the type, use Bosch WR7DCX or NGK or Nippon Denso.

Recently there was a posting about cleaning injectors. Either Socrateez, kjmerkel69 or Berserko wrote it, not sure.

_________________
Got rabies?

It was socrates
damn I wanna see that movie again

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01 Maxima VQ30DE
92 Summit 4g63t (Traded to Evo... R.I.P.)

Thanks!
huh?

_________________
Got rabies?

First of all, I want to say Thank You Very much for all the people who gave their response about my car.

But, I did not reply right away because I'm still observing my car about this high idling of 1100-1200.

And, as soon as I parked my car from work just today. I switch-off the engine, then I connected the two(2) grounding wires (1 Ignition timing-1 Diagnostic port). I start the engine, it start but quit after 3-5 secs, check grounding wires found in correct position. Start the engine again, engine starts, after 2-5 secs ENGINE QUIT AGAIN!! WHY???

Before I reach the BISS after starting, engine always quit.

1. How can I adjust the BISS now to 800-850RPM?
2. What do you guys think about the problem? Why engine quits after connecting 2 grounding wires?
3. What are your opinions & corrective action for this kind of problem?
4. Is it Normal that the Idling & Base-Timing setting is always going nowhere after removing grounding wires???
5. Would you suspect TPS or Closed Throttle position switch is the culprit?

NORMAN
88 COLT GTi-16V

OMG what the heck is going on there???
Try letting the engine run and THEN connect the grounding wires. Maybe your base timing is really far off. If you have a nother 4G6x/G4Cx DOHC around, try to take a look at the CAS position relative to the rocker cover and grossly adjust visually from there, and then w/ a timing light again. BTW, what gasoline are you using?

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Got rabies?