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what company makes a shop manual that covers the '92 Colt? I wanna change the timing belt on my 4G15 but have never done a timing belt and/or chain on an OHC engine before, if it were a typical overhead valve american engine I wouldn't beed a shop manual for anything other then tourqe specs. anyway about all I know of timing belts is that most OHC engines you can lock the cam in place with a pin punch if you get it to the right point. does my engine have a balance shaft I have to worry about? I need input.

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RIP- '92 Colt 200E, 12valve 4G15, 5spd.

'89 Colt 200E, stock 8valve 4G15, 5spd,

Best off getting the factory manual. I've tried Haynes and Chilton's and while they are good for the amateur shadetree wrench, nothing compares to the OEM books.

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Witty Signature Goes Here!

haynes and chilton are all I need though. I just need some basic info and tourqe specs, problem is it dosn't look like either of them make a shop manual for the newer models. the only one I see listed for haynes is 1983-1987 colts. I picked up a couple hyundai manuals at the public library which have the info I need for the timing belt, that will do me for now. i'll have to check the dealership for a FSM price

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RIP- '92 Colt 200E, 12valve 4G15, 5spd.

'89 Colt 200E, stock 8valve 4G15, 5spd,

I just looked at ebay and saw five haynes manuals ranging in price from $3 to $14. That's what I have used for two years now for exactly what your trying to do and it was sufficient. Obviously not as good a factory man. but a lot more available. By the way, the first thing you must do is break loose the Crank Bolt. Good Luck.

I've tried twice to break loose the crank pulley bolt without success. How do you immobilize the crank while you apply torque to the bolt?

Chilton's part (8418) 20342 covers 90 - 93 Colt/Vistas and covers all US and Canadian models of Dodge Colt and Colt Vistas. It's listed under Chrysler. I think I bought mine from NAPA for around $18 US.

-Kev

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Cheap, Fast, Reliable......you can only pick <b>TWO</b>.

I gotta do the same thing. Fortunately when i go to work monday i'll put my air impact on it. Other than that stick a punch through one of the holes in the cam pulley to imobilize it. Or you can get one of those wrenches that use a length of fan belt to grip it it. Either way, the crank pulley bolt is one tough bugger.

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http://members.cardomain.com/socrateez
04' Olds Alero
91' Colt GL hatchback
4g15 12valve 5spd.
4g37 TB, MAF & Injectors. 4g37 ECU
Ported & polished & custom CAI w/K&N filter
5* Cam retard, 7*Ignition advance
2-1/4" catback w/flowmaster muffler
89 GT brake and suspension swap
Lots of little s#@t

hmm, parts store didn't show a listing for that. i'll have to go kick em some more

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RIP- '92 Colt 200E, 12valve 4G15, 5spd.

'89 Colt 200E, stock 8valve 4G15, 5spd,

Hopefully you have a manual trans. So you put the tranny in first gear and the car on the ground. Crank the wheels all the way left. Put your socket(1/2" drive) on the crank bolt and put a six inch extension through the hole in the wheel well to a 18" breaker bar. Put tension on the breaker bar and firmly tap the end of the bar with a hammer. The force you're exerting plus the vibration from the hammer should be enough to break the crank bolt loose. Good luck

If your lucky! Honda and Hyundai commonly use lock-tite. Mitsubishi's are just plain TIGHT! I have broken the heads off of crank pulley bolts. When that happens you weld a big nut to the remaining stud and try again. Not fun.

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http://members.cardomain.com/socrateez
04' Olds Alero
91' Colt GL hatchback
4g15 12valve 5spd.
4g37 TB, MAF & Injectors. 4g37 ECU
Ported & polished & custom CAI w/K&N filter
5* Cam retard, 7*Ignition advance
2-1/4" catback w/flowmaster muffler
89 GT brake and suspension swap
Lots of little s#@t

umm, your scaring me now

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RIP- '92 Colt 200E, 12valve 4G15, 5spd.

'89 Colt 200E, stock 8valve 4G15, 5spd,

Sorry Just explaining the worst case scenario. Air tools really are the way to go if your having trouble removing that bolt.

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http://members.cardomain.com/socrateez
04' Olds Alero
91' Colt GL hatchback
4g15 12valve 5spd.
4g37 TB, MAF & Injectors. 4g37 ECU
Ported & polished & custom CAI w/K&N filter
5* Cam retard, 7*Ignition advance
2-1/4" catback w/flowmaster muffler
89 GT brake and suspension swap
Lots of little s#@t

Hello!
before anything check how the crack pulley turn(clock wise or counter)
U need a 1/2 braker bar and 6 point socket.
put the socket and braker bar on the pulley
make sure its the opposite of the rotion of the engine/counter clock wise
and make sure the braker bar is not going to move.
jam it on the floor. and crank engine 1 time or 2 times
walla the bolt is loose

Me I used a piece of metal of ¼inche tick by 2 feet long, I put 2 bolts on it(same size as the holes in the crank pulley) than I place it on the floor to be sure it doesn't move and I used a braker bar to unbolt it.

I used my feet to press on the bar because this bolt is thighten at 90Lbs

And never turn an engine in opposite direction (i think on a 4G15, the right direction is clockwise)