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 Post subject: Re: BCS installation
PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2016 9:44 am 
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The Silent Administrator
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Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
BOV has to be sealed at idle and at all circumstances other than when it is commanded open. Otherwise you have a large leak at the BOV. This needs to be remedied, stat.
I admit I would be quite incorrect as to the vacuum tube routing from the EGR location.

Start by plugging the vacuum/leak situation, basically get a 1G BOV and new gasket. As for the 02 sensor, only you can tell us how good it is swinging when the engine is running, but it will only give an "accurate" reading when everything else is calmed down in terms of surge, otherwise things will peg high/low too frequently and the idle won't be steady. What you can confirm, is the resistance across the heater circuit of the 02 and or use a logger to confirm the swing. Start by getting all the hoses in the correct places then work your way back to an oxygen sensor and such. You can always swap the sensors, and apply some nickel anti seize to the threads of the sensor being reinstalled.

IIRC, the charcoal canister has the inputs/outputs labelled on the top of the can. If too dirty/greasy, they could be partly covered up.


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 Post subject: Re: BCS installation
PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2016 2:17 pm 
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Location: California
Yea I already have a 1g bov on the way... He just had his vented to the atmosphere but isn't running a maf after the bov... Surprisingly the car doesn't stall after boosting like it should

The can has 3 labels. Tank, carb, and To A/C...The To AC is the hose in question... It goes to the purge valve then to the intake I believe


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 Post subject: Re: BCS installation
PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2016 3:51 pm 
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My setup uses two hoses on the charcoal canister: 1 hose to the fuel tank vent, 1 large diameter hose goes to the purge valve attached at the side of the canister bracket.

Couple of pics will elaborate on this further.

In the last pic, the blue dot hash mark line goes to the FPR, so the other set of lines is the Purge Control Solenoid setup.

My build thread with the pictures referenced here is located here: Click Me for Galantvr4.org


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 Post subject: Re: BCS installation
PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2016 4:09 pm 
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Visit this thread, as it shows the reference to what port on the TB was feeding the Purge valve, should your TB be the same. I am likely using a rebuilt 1990 TB - memory fuzzy on that one, but the vacuum ports tell now lies.

Thread: Click Me

More help here: Image


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 Post subject: Re: BCS installation
PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2016 4:19 pm 
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Edit - mixup with hose 2+3 on my end while reading the diagram. Edit now reflects this and my post below.


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 Post subject: Re: BCS installation
PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2016 6:20 pm 
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Location: California
Quote:
Quote:
yea ive confirmed with the dsm manual as well, the hose is connected correctly to the purge valve, you suspect the egr vacuum line but before i swapped the 16g in my idle was perfect, ive checked and rechecked everything that i disconnected in the process and im stumped. before i installed the turbo i replaced all the gaskets and crush washers on it. theres a slight chance that it could be the hole where the hose for the bypass valve was on the intake, the guy had a long hose ran with some towels stuffed in it because he installed a blow off valve and it cant be recirculated and i dont have a 1g bov laying around, i removed the hose and plugged the hole on the intake best i could, im going to inspect it and fabricate a cap for it, other than that the next step for me would be to pull all the vacuum lines and fit the car with all new lines. Im also going to change out the 02 sensor because i left the 02 sensor that was already in the 16g in there and didnt reuse my old sensor, they looked to be the same sensor except mine was blackened and the 16g was only grey (looked healthier)
The hose labelled #3 goes from the intake tube, to the valve cover spigot - either a 90 degree or straight nipple fitting. If you have this hose hooked up any other way, it is wrong. Just checking.

according to the diagram hose #2 is for the breather on the valve cover and hose #3 is connected to the intake pipe via large diameter hose


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 Post subject: Re: BCS installation
PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2016 8:47 pm 
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You are correct. I'll edit my post. We need a member with a virgin 4g61t setup, to shed some light on exactly where that purge hose is going; ie #3.


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 Post subject: Re: BCS installation
PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2016 9:31 pm 
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That would be perfect...I'm going to put in some more hours tomorrow before work and hopefully get this idle thing figured out. I'll post my results


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 Post subject: Re: BCS installation
PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 8:39 pm 
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I didn't have much time today, I went over all my hoses and everything looked good, I did notice oil in my intake but I think that's because my rings are bad and I'm building pressure in the crankcase...I'm going to cap off all the unnecessary vacuum lines and see if I can work backwards to find the culprit. If I plug all the lines and still have surge where should I look next? I'm going to buy a check valve to put between the pcv and intake manifold cause I'm sure that 20 year old pcv is crap by now


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 Post subject: Re: BCS installation
PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 8:43 pm 
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Quote:
Do me a favor and leave the EGR together for now. Confirm if it has two vacuum ports on top of the diaphragm. If just one then it is Federal. Put a vacuum hand pump on the vacuum nipple and confirm when operated, that it nearly stalls the motor or actually does. If nothing happens, then assume the diaphragm is leaking (not as likely as the next bit), or the passage in the Intake manifold is plugged with soot/carbon.
You can delete it if you want, but spraying brake cleaner near it may confirm a leaking diaphragm and a spot that idle surge could be created by. Leave fiddling with the EGR till last if I were you.
When you say the passage in the intake manifold are you referring to the hose that goes from the valve cover to manifold (pcv valve spot)


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 Post subject: Re: BCS installation
PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2016 1:05 pm 
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Quote:
Quote:
Do me a favor and leave the EGR together for now. Confirm if it has two vacuum ports on top of the diaphragm. If just one then it is Federal. Put a vacuum hand pump on the vacuum nipple and confirm when operated, that it nearly stalls the motor or actually does. If nothing happens, then assume the diaphragm is leaking (not as likely as the next bit), or the passage in the Intake manifold is plugged with soot/carbon.
You can delete it if you want, but spraying brake cleaner near it may confirm a leaking diaphragm and a spot that idle surge could be created by. Leave fiddling with the EGR till last if I were you.
When you say the passage in the intake manifold are you referring to the hose that goes from the valve cover to manifold (pcv valve spot)
In the intake manifold where the EGR bolts to the side, is a tube - should be hollow. If it is plugged, clean it out. Its the bump in the runners.

Any standard you need the car to get to, should likely only be Federal emission standard. Confirm with your VIN via Mitsu dealer and/or emissions decal on the hood.

One of the EGR nipples will hold vacuum with slow bleed down, and the other will not hold vacuum IIRC. This is going off nearly a decade ago, the manual should have a test for this.
Any way you look at it, if you use a screwdriver/flat tip to actuate the diaphragm in the EGR and the engine stumbles while running, it is partly a good sign. You can plug the EGR vacuum lines for now if the temp valve (at the thermostat neck) is not hooked inline again (missing nipple).


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 Post subject: Re: BCS installation
PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2016 12:05 am 
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Location: California
Egr tubes were clear


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 Post subject: Re: BCS installation
PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2016 12:29 am 
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But I do have the egr temp sensor so its a California model


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 Post subject: Re: BCS installation
PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2016 6:25 am 
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BLT = boost leak test to confirm system integrity and determine source of any leaks externally. TB could be leaking internally, but try the system as a whole, first.


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 Post subject: Re: BCS installation
PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2016 12:44 pm 
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thats next on the list, gonna make a tester today. i blocked off my egr and capped all my vacuum routes except fpr and wastegate turbo outlet (basically just the 4 nipples on the intake manifold. the idle came down to about 1100 rpm after initial startup then when it was moderately warm it came down to about 900-1000. i took it for a drive, i get high idle when coasting (1200) and when i got home after a 5 mile drive the idle was back up to 1500 but no surge. gonna mount a smic and do a boost leak test today


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