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PostPosted: Tue Jul 16, 2013 6:42 am 
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CSM Junkie
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Metric is for people with small hands, smell like cabbage... :lol:

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1991 GVR4 1025/2000 (PTE 1200's, 16g, DSMLink v3, gm-maf, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's, EVO VIII Wheels)
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 16, 2013 7:10 am 
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I also just realised i wrote 19mm and 20mm when i meant cm and the first one was 15 not 19 ... felt like an idiot so thought id correct myself


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2013 3:44 am 
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Ok so i got the thing out and put the new one in, the old one liturally had no more of that soft black backing on it , it was melted and oozed out, i put the new knock sensor in, and the light turned back on after a minute, got the volt meter and again code 31 knock sensor.... what could be causing this? I bought my knock snsor brand new from repco i bought a knock sensor to suit a magna tr / ts 2.6 lt & galant (what itmsays on the box) which i was told would be the same and suit but im not sure if this is rght, the sensor fit perfectly, is it sensitive to how tight it is ? Should it be really tight or ?

Did i get the wrong knock snsor perhaps?

The cars idle is being funny atm to, it starts at 1500 rpm works its way down to 800 after driving it but it still takes like 5 seconds or so after a complete stop to start dropping its revs......

Car seems to run fine otherwise, no weird noises, smooth accel, no smoke, no leaks except from the turbo return line....

If anyone has any info on this it would be greatly appreciated :)

Thanks


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2013 5:21 am 
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I started a new thread with some more recent issues including this one in the 4g61t specific part of is board.
But any answers posted here will still be greatly appreciated :-)


Thanks


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2013 6:47 am 
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If the ecu thinks the knock sensor is disconnected or invalid it sets the timing curve to something like 9* advance under all circumstances. So if timing is capped at 9* it will definitely affect the way the car runs, acts. Check the ground for the knock sensor. Make sure the connector and wires are good and that the sensor has a good ground to the block.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2013 8:57 am 
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I think i may have found the issue, but ill have to wait till morning to know for sure, the wires coming into the plug for the knock sensor seem to have been cut and twisted back together then wrapped with sticky tape... wtf are some people thinking when they put stuff together Ike this ?

Anyways, im going to buy some solder with flux in the morning and solder that shit and trace it back to make sure its not dodgy anywhere else....

It doesnt seem to have as much go as it should by the way aswell so itd say its messing w ith the timing...


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2013 11:10 am 
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Quote:
If the ecu thinks the knock sensor is disconnected or invalid it sets the timing curve to something like 9* advance under all circumstances. So if timing is capped at 9* it will definitely affect the way the car runs, acts. Check the ground for the knock sensor. Make sure the connector and wires are good and that the sensor has a good ground to the block.
With the ks disconnected or dead, the ecu pulls 4.5* right off the bat. The subroutine for that was found recently :).

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2013 2:50 am 
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Hey, so i cut the wire from ecu to sensor as the old ends had some corrosion through it and i wanted to solder the plug on ( it was just twisted together before i got to it...) seems though the entire cable may be like this...... damn.... so im in the process of tracing the wire down to run a fresh one because i think that the corroded wires may not be functioning properly.... anyone have a pin out for where on the ecu this goes to ?
Also when you said make sure its grounded properly, where does the knock sensor ground to? Is it in the engine bay or on the ecu ?

Thanks any help will as allways be greatly appreciated :-)


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2013 3:07 am 
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Also shawn j what do you mean by knock sensor invalid? Is that if i got the wrong knock sensor?


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2013 3:26 am 
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Btw this is the knock sensor i bought
[img=http://s18.postimg.org/lqhc7ymw5/IMG_20 ... 182043.jpg]

They said it was the same but i think it has a different part number to the one posted earlier... id just hate for that to be my problem ;-)


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2013 6:42 am 
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The knock sensor body itself has to be grounded. When you screw the sensor into the block, don't use thread tape or anything. The body of the sensor has to be grounded. That's why if someone removes the sensor for testing while driving, you have to ground it to the firewall via some method. I use safety wire. Also, the sensor wires are shielded and the shielding must be grounded too in order to function properly.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2013 7:52 am 
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When you say shielded are you referring to the plug itself ?

Also i just realised i have a galant vr4 ecu running everything

I also just traced the cables down and hope i found it the ground is pretty bad...
Ill find put in the mrning though its to late to start the car in garage at this time...


Thanks


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 3:55 am 
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Ok sooo i traced down the cables, fixed the ground, re did the connection for the plug, and still get the light on after about a min...


What else could this be ?


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 5:13 am 
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Is there anything loud in the engine bay that's unusual? Something like lifter tick? Anything sound out of place? I wonder if the sensor is actually picking up knock/noise. What is your CEL code number?

Edit: Upon further research it seems the knock sensor may not set a CEL due to picking up knock. It should only set off the light due to faulty signal to the ECU. So the next thing should be to check your ECU and wiring in that area.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 8:05 am 
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Thanks for the reply,
Yeah the code seems to be related to the knock sensor and wiring, im just trying to backtrack what was done previously, i also may need to get a new plug ( the end from the ecu to knock sensor) as the one inhave had barely any cable left on it and iam unsure if iam getting a good connection, can i replace this wire with any type of wire or does it have to be the exact same type of shielded wire ?

Also i found a wiring diagram for an evo 3 ecu looks the same pinout as mine i have a vr4 ecu...
Heres the link
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/ ... medium.jpg
Would this be the same thing you think ?iam pretty sure the knock sensor cable is in the same spot.
on the ecu it has a sensor ground cable(pin72), should the knock sensor be grounded to that ?
Oh and is there a way to test the knock sensor without it being bolted in ?

By the way the shielding on the cable is what connects to the ground on the plug coming from ecu and then grounds to chasis right ?

Thanks


Last edited by jaetea on Fri Jul 19, 2013 8:55 am, edited 3 times in total.

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