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Hrmmm... how low do the revs drop? Maybe the switch and/or the SAS is misaligned.
The SAS is the amount by which the trottle plate is opened even though the accellerator isn't depressed. It has to be adjusted within specs.
Regarding its adjustment, when VFAQ doesn't have it, try that URL w/ the huge load of PDF files. But it should be in that TPS adjustment file, also.

Edit: http://www.plymouthlaser.com/tps.htm
The SAS adjustment, though, is described in one of those PDF files.

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Hi! I observed my car again today. Now, I don't have any engine stalling problem during parking. But, what I noticed and I can not understand is; Why my engine RPM is drooping so quick ( like snapping your finger...) when I rev it over 2000 RPM then I step on the brake pedal.
Another thing I check this morning is my accelerator cable that hook-up on the throttle-body, I noticed that the cable is LOOSE or NO-TENSION on the spring that connects to the throttle-valve. I try to find ways on how can I adjust it but, I can't see any adjuster to put Tension on the accelerator cable. Do you know how to adjust this cable? After this, I am thinking to adjust this Closed throttle position switch.



NORMAN
88 COLT GTi-16V

You found the problem!
However, I don't know how to adjust that thing. I think all that is needed is fiddling around w/ some screw(s) at the accellerator pedal.
Does anyone know?

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On my car there are two screws that hold the cable to the intake manifold. Adjust with those if you have them.

I found that 2 Adjusting-bolt with a plate that hold the cable to the intake manifold. But, I am thinking that if I put tension on the cable, the throttle lever will lost touching the Closed-Position switch.
So, what is the best way to do this thing? I mean which one should go first, adjust the accelerator-cable then the closed-throttle position switch, then check Base-Timing? These are the things that confusing to me. Plus, this TPS,right? I need all your expertise in bringing back the proper setting of all the sensors that feed to ECU in order to have a good engine running condition.
Another thing, is this throttle-valve should be fully close during idling? Or, it's should be partially open thru the Closed-Throttle position switch or by the tension in accelerator-cable?


NAMRON
COLT GTi-16V

You don't really want to put tension on the cable, but you don't want any slack in it either.

Adjust that cable, and then adjust the idle switch so that it gets pressed when the TB closes. The switch should be adjustable by turning it.

Hello GUYS,

I already adjusted my Accelerator-cable thru this two(2) adjusting bolt, and here are the scenarios;
1. Engine temperature - COLD
2. Loosen 2 adjusting bolt & move the plate inward until I feel the tension on the cable.
3. Tighten the adjusting bolt.
4. Start the engine- REV 2500RPM ( too high...!)
5. Loosen again the 2 adjusting bolt and slightly tap the plate outward til the 1500RPM, tighten the bolts.
6. Drove the car, engine running very well.

Noticeable effect;
1. When I release the accelerator for the stop, engine RPM stays on 1200. After few seconds, RPM drop to 700-750. ( I like this......!)
2. As soon as the engine gets hotter, I noticed that everytime I step on the brake pedal, the RPM gauge also drops more than 500RPM. (WHY?)
3. On fully stop, I step on the brake pedal & RPM drops to zero.(WHY?)
4. Using signal-lights, RPM also follow the tick of the lights.(WHY?)
5. Using headlights, RPM stays on 700-750, steps on the brakes-No effect to the RPM gauge. (WHY?)

WHAT ARE THE NEXT THINGS I SHOULD DO & CHECK TO CORRECT ALL THIS PROBLEM? NEED ALL YOUR HELLLLLLLLLLLLLP!

( I'm getting HAPPY now little by little after I corrected the accelerator- cable problem and the engine RPM is not going down right away everytime I released my foot on the accelerator pedal)


NAMRON
88 COLT GTi-16V

2,3,4,5) Sounds like maybe electrical gremlins....

Maybe you should play around w/ the tension of the throttle cable a bit and then re-adjust the idle again. As for electrical problems, I have no clue exept checking all involved sensors (which you already did) or install some extra grounding wires.

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Yes, tomorrow I'll try to play on the throttle-cable and I will check the Base-Timing. Do I need to ground Ignition-timing & Diagnostic-port again or Ignition-timing is enough to be grounded? Then, I'll just set the Camshaft- sensor to 5 BTDC by using Timing-light right? What I remember last time, the mechanic whose fixing this engine before was, what he did is he just hook-up timing light to the #1 spark-plug cable and slightly tapping this camshaft-sensor. But, what I noticed is, why he can not fix the timing mark? I mean, I saw it thru the timing-light that the timing is floating in between 3-8 mark BTDC.
The mark is always keep on moving up & down, it should be fix to 5,6, or 7 BTDC on where you set the camshaft-sensor right? After I checked the Base-timing, my next step is to adjust the idling again, is this a good move?


NAMRON
COLT GTi-16V

You'll have to follow the instructions. BOTH wires have to be grounded, or else you'll adjust nothing.
That mechanic was really stupid. If he didn't ground anything, no wonder base timing moved between 3-8 degs. Once everything is grounded, after 2 minutes the engine will settle to the base timing. Should be 5 degs +-2, however I doubt you'll get those values, as you mechanic played around beforehand in a wrong way.
Exactly!

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HI TO EVERYBODY !!

After doing so many things in Idling adjustment, my car still runs badly. Until now I can't figure out what is really WRONG on this engine. Last time I adjust the throttle- cable and runs fine for a few days, then I adjust it more and the idling runs HIGH at 1200rpm. Then, adjust Closed-throttle position switch, seems theres nothing happening.
I can not understand WHY IS THE ENGINE RUNS LIKE CRAP EVERYTIME I DISTURB ONE THING?????????
My QUESTIONS are:
1. Why the engine stalls everytime I stepped on the brakes?
(CONDITION- All lights & A/C are ON )
2. Is the BISS screw normal position is NEARLY CLOSED or FULLY OPEN?
3. If any sensor is FAULT/FAIL, the CHECK ENGINE light is ON?
I knew that the previous owner & mechanic mess up everything on this engine, HOW CAN I PUT EVERYTHING BACK TO NORMAL? The only thing I haven't done is to check the Base-Timing, because Im getting nervous to do so and I might mess-up everything again.
Please HELP ME!!!!!!!!! I REALLY DO APPRECIATE ANY HELP THAT ALL OF YOU GUYS OUT THERE CAN EXTEND TO ME.


NAMRON
88 COLT GTi-16V

Oh... say how old are the caps in the ECU...?
Why did you readjust the throttle cable when everything was (more or less) supposedly in order?
Vehicle speed sensor broken (very probable!); ISC malfunctioning (don't think so); ECU dying (check the caps ASAP!).
Approximately in the middle, but a bit near to closed.
Not necessarily. Not all error codes trip the CEL. I'd read out the error codes (if there are any).

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HI! Thanks for the reply, I adjust the accelerator-cable a little bit to follow your post message dated Nov. 5.

1. What is this CAPS in the ECU?
(This is probably old & never change yet!)
2. How can I check this CAPS?
3. Is the Vehicle Speed Sensor is the Camshaft Sensor or Distributor?
(Is that the one rotating to adjust Base Timing?)
4. How do you read error codes without using any scan tool?
(Can you teach me?)

Actually, most of the people here in Southern part of China are all having problem on this type of engine and most of the shops really don't know how to fix this problem of stalling. HYUNDAI ELANTRA is using the same engine. Last night I saw a Hyundai Elantra with the same engine inside the shop near in my house, the owner is complaining the same problem like mine. The mechanic just adjust the BISS and a little bit to the Closed Switch, so the RPM gets to 1100. But the owner is really pissed-off, He said then after a day of using the car all the problems are back.

I know you know very well this engine, PLEASE DON'T GET TIRED/BORED IN HELPING ME!!!!!!!!


NAMRON
88 COLT GTi-16V

1. Those caps are capacitors (three) inside the ECU. Over the years, they'll start leaking electrolyte eating away the PCB and causing the ECU to fail in various ways. If not changed in time, the result is an ultemately destroyed ECU.
2. You'd need to open the ECU (4 or 6 bolts) and take a look at them. However, sometimes the damage will only be apparent when the caps are desoldered.
3. The vehicle speed sensor is inside the gauge cluster. It sits next to the speedometer.
And yes, to adjust base timing, the camshaft position sensor has to be turned.
4. There were lots of postings about reading error codes. Here's the quick version: Take and LED or buzzer (what you most prefer). Put the negative terminal to pin 12 (ground) on the dignostic port and the positive terminal to pin 1. When the ignition is switched on, the ECU will start blinking codes. Two short blinks/beeps followed by 5 long beeps will mean error code 25. A steady blinking ("error code 1") means the ECU has no error stored. Constant +12V means the ECU is DEAD.

There was a list of error codes somewhere. If I only remembered where... Maybe on this board? However, there are links at VFAQ.COM, and I got a book w/ all error codes. So if you get an error code and couldn't find the list, just ask me, I'll look it up.


And hey, I won't get bored. I might just get out of wisdom. However, I've managed to revive ALL engines I encountered in the past. And I NEVER give up.

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