Specializing in the 3g CSM
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 1969 7:00 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 03, 2001 7:00 pm
Posts: 2191
Location: SoCal and Wisconsin
If you have an 89-92 1.5L Mirage and want to do the swap, here are all the parts and tools that I can think of.

Motor mounts needed for swap. Use 1989 Mirage Turbo mounts for best results.

89 Mirage 1.5 auto
Rear metal MD113496
Rear Rubber MB43667[b:2l326k3l]6[/b:2l326k3l]
Front metal MD119742
Front rubber MB43667[b:2l326k3l]1[/b:2l326k3l]

89 Mirage 5-speed
Rear metal MD113496
Rear rubber MB43667[b:2l326k3l]5[/b:2l326k3l]
Front metal MD119742
Front rubber MB43667[b:2l326k3l]0[/b:2l326k3l]

89 Mirage Turbo
Rear metal MD11349[b:2l326k3l]7[/b:2l326k3l]
rear rubber MB436675
front metal MD119742
front rubber MB436670

*See Note at bottom for swapping in a Automatic car
Complete engine from an 89-94 Mitsubishi Eclipse Turbo
Side mount intercooler and all stock piping
Upgraded fuel pump
KM-210 transmission. (Turbo Colt/Mirage)
F5M33 1G Turbo DSM transmission
89 Mirage Turbo transmission/engine plate
1G FWD Turbo flywheel, or stock Colt/Mirage turbo flywheel
Any DSM turbo clutch works fine, I love the 2100+6-puck
If you want to use the KM201, KM206, or F5M22 transmissions, you need to find a 1G Eclipse N/T flywheel to fit in the trans. (not advised) The 1.6L NT flywheel would fit for sure as well.
Engine wiring harness from Eclipse
Starter from any Eclipse turbo
Injector resistor from same year Eclipse (silver box with 4 wires going into it, mounted on firewall)
Same year ECU and MPI relay
Timing belt motor mount from 89 Mirage Turbo
Rear metal motor mount from 89 Mirage Turbo
89 Mirage Turbo complete transmission mount
89 Mirage Turbo front metal mount or 1.5L metal mount (the rubber front and rear "wheels" that bolt to the crossmember are the same on the 1.5L and the turbo).
A complete 90 AWD exhaust system fit in my Mirage with a *little* clearance issue under the rear axle
Do remember in order for your tachometer to work you need to use a 90 DSM harness and related components.

Here's a quick rundown on how to mix and match the wiring from both engines.

Pull the 1.5L engine, unhook ECU and MPI relay (under radio). Pull the carpet back and cut all that plastic and tape to expose the wiring harness. Rip the entire engine harness out of the car, everything that's connected to the engine, take it out of the car. Go back in the car and grab all those wires that come FROM the ECU and MPI relay. Cut them in a convenient spot. Go back in the engine bay and pull on the harness to pull all the wires through. If you want to remove the entire dash and heater core assembly to have a cleaner uninstall, go for it. The harness goes through a hole BEHIND the heater core assembly. By now you probably noticed some wires coming from a few other connectors be the passenger kick panel that go into the engine bay. Cut these, but leave some length on them. These wires are for all your gauge sensors, check engine light, etc. Nothing engine related. Now that the engine bay is empty, take some time to clean it. I would recommend ordering the repair kit for the lower sway bar. Order both sides' repair kits and the two oval shaped bushings near the middle of the bar. Its very easy to replace now, hard with an engine sitting there.

Put in the Eclipse harness at this time.
[img:2l326k3l]http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sra ... 9a5e94.jpg[/img:2l326k3l]
I had A/C awhile ago, and took it out. I used the hole the A/C assembly stuck into on the firewall to feed all my wires. If you still have, or want to keep your A/C, drill a new hole, or pull the dash and try to wire them all through the original hole. Plug in the MPI relay, plug in the ECU. The ECU can be mounted in the stock Mirage position, under the passenger side kick panel with a little bending. Drop in the turbo engine. Plug everything in. I recommend using the stock 1.5L Mirage starter wiring harness. Makes everything easy. Connect the ignition wire from the starter harness to the little plug coming out of the passenger side fuse box with the yellow/black wire. When you turn the key, this wire gets power. You'll also see a red/black wire, this is the MPI relay power. You can use this wire, or I'd recommend using the tri-fuse block supplied with the Eclipse turbo wiring harness, this mounts on the battery and has 3 fuses for MPI, radiator fan, and ignition. Now that everything is connected, there are a few more things that need to be done. Run a wire from that yellow/black ignition wire into the car. This is needed later to make everything work. Go back in the car and get our your factory wiring manual. Connect that yellow/black wire to the corresponding "ignition switch" wire that goes into the MPI relay. I think it's yellow/black, or maybe black/white. Over by the wires you cut, you'll find a single black/white skinny wire. This is your fuel pump wire. (be sure it's not the thicker black/white wire, this is +12V with car switched on) Connect the skinny black/white wire to the green/black wire that comes out of the MPI relay. This is your fuel pump turn on. Next, go through the electrical manual and match up wires from that blue connector coming off of the Eclipse harness to your cut wires. Be sure to hook up the coolant gauge, (tan/green), the diagnostic wires, and the check engine light wire. These all come and go from the blue connector near the ECU on the Eclipse harness to your passenger side kick panels on the Mirage. The colors mostly seem to match up perfectly. Just make sure everything is correct. You won't have wipers unless you extend the Eclipse harness' plug for the wiper motor, it just doesn't reach. Same with the brake warning light to the master cylinder. Connect the Vehicle Speed Sensor wire from the gauge cluster to the new ECU. This is a yellow/white wire that pops out of the black C-50 connector with the gray foam on it. This wire is pin 8 on that connector. Connect this wire to pin 18 on the ECU connector. Also a yellow/white wire. This has something to do with the engine idle adjusting itself when you push in the clutch and coast to a stop. Be sure to ground everything at the ECU, trans/block to frame, intake manifold to frame, and any other wiring harness grounds that are popping out of the Eclipse harness in the engine bay. This SHOULD be everything, the car should start and run at this point. If you need more detailed guidance, let me know. I'll try to map out a few more wires I connected, but everything listed is what's needed for a running engine.

Of course, be sure to swap in an upgraded fuel pump, and mount the intercooler. You can use all the stock 1G Eclipse intercooler piping. You need to buy one coupling to join the two rubber upper intercooler pipes together. You will want to stick the stock 1G upper intercooler pipes from the turbo outlet to the intercooler, and use the stock lower IC pipe from the intercooler to TB on the Mirage setup. Just cut it to fit. Buy a bunch of hose clamps and have at it. I also relocated my battery to the trunk on a previous occasion, so I had a bunch more room up front. I doubt this is really necessary with a small battery.
[img:2l326k3l]http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sra ... 9a607c.jpg[/img:2l326k3l]

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[img:2l326k3l]http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sra ... 9a5e75.jpg[/img:2l326k3l]

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I am using my stock 1.5L automatic halfshafts. They will work with any transmission.

[img:2l326k3l]http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sra ... 9b9cdc.jpg[/img:2l326k3l]
89 Mirage 4G63
90 Tsi AWD

[b:2l326k3l]for automatic equipped cars[/b:2l326k3l]

When I did this conversion from a 3 speed Auto from a 92 Colt 1.5 to a manual tranny from a 90 Colt, I ran into problems with the CV axles. Apparently, the spline area of the inboard side on some of the 92 Colt axles are not long enough to engage the snap ring inside the transmission...although the seal areas and the other dimensions are correct. The axles I worked with had the CV boots that have the three crescent moon shapes molded into them, instead of a solid circular shape. Eventually, I swiped some CV axles off of a Hyundai 1.5L and went with those. The internal bearings were not a perfect fit, but they were snug enough to not cause any problems as the car has been driving fine for close to 9 months now. Just thought this might help someone out. Also, in order to avoid a possible problem, I believe you can cut the wires from pin 8 and 9 (the neutral position switch) from the auto tranny wiring harness, and connect them together. That way, you don't have to wire the manual clutch to be pushed all the way down to start the vehicle.

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