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PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2015 4:47 pm 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood

Joined: Fri Feb 22, 2008 12:50 am
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Location: Lakewood Ranch, FL
I purchased Chris's 92 Colt GL for my father but have to get it through emissions here in Northern VA. It passed everything except the visual because it did not have the charcoal canister, no fault to Chris since he probably doesn't have to worry about emissions in NC. It should be no problem getting this hooked up to pass as I have a 1g DSM charcoal canister in my spare parts bin, but wanted to run by a few others as a sanity check. I've referenced the following 97 Galant 4g64 vacuum diagram and I should be able to hook the 1g DSM charcoal canister "TO TANK" port up to the tank vent line that should be somewhere down on the middle or passenger side lower firewall (I've never looked for it before so making an assumption here). I should then be able to hook up the "TO A/C" line on the 1g DSM charcoal canister to the EVAP purge solenoid "lower" port and the "upper port" on the EVAP purge solenoid to an open port on the intake manifold. The "TO CARB" line is factory plugged and not used. Anyone see any issues with this configuration? The turbo cars had a purge control valve inline with the "TO A/C" line so this would not be needed since this is an NA application. The 1g DSM does have what looks like a check valve inline from the tank vent port to the "TO TANK" port on the charcoal canister. I may need to see if I can source that as well, but not sure how important that is.

For reference, the car has a NA 4g64 out of a 95 Galant running a 2g DSM 4g63 cylinder head and intake manifold and a 1g turbo throttle body with ports tapped and plugged.

Image

1g DSM charcoal canister for reference is shown below.

Image

Now I have a couple solenoids laying around but they are numbered K5T43988 which appears to be the fuel pressure solenoid (FPS) and K5T43984 which appears to be a vacuum control valve used for the EGR system. Digressing for a moment, it did not fail for having EGR blocked off, so I won't worry about that for now. Anyone know what the part number is for the EVAP purge solenoid? I know these usually get trashed, so hopefully I can find one or an equivalent aftermarket solution. I could just hook this up to look like it "works" but if I'm going through this much effort, I may as well properly reinstall it since it will be required again 2 years from now.

Looks like I need to tie pin 1 of the EVAP solenoid to MPI power source, and I'll probably just tie off ISC pin 5; and pin 2 goes to ECU pin 62.

So that leads me to two things I need:

1. EVAP solenoid (with connector and pigtail if possible)
2. ECU pin removed from ECU connector with wiring

Anyone have these laying around? If so, shoot me a PM. I've unfortunately boxed up and put in storage a bunch of items, and I know I had some ECU pins with wiring in tact that were from a truncated wiring harness.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2015 5:56 pm 
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The Silent Administrator
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I would match the following parts to the ECU you are using:

EGR Solenoid
Evap Solenoid
FPR Solenoid

So, if this uses a 97 Galant ECU, find out what part numbers match that. I can't say if they all use the same current to operate, but it would mean matching loads on whichever portion of the circuits they are tapped into on the board or MPI relay.

I would then follow the 97 Galant wiring schematic and make sure you are tapped into the same points it would use.

I just pulled out my old 4g61t motor to put parts back onto it, and I stumbled across my old harness/ECU connectors from the J1 elantra, direct fit to the 1G harness!

IF you need pins with pigtails, I've got a bunch now.

Also, if you want new wires/pins, bradrs (IE Sheridan Engineering) will likely have a good source on those. http://connectors.sheridanengineering.com/index.htm


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2015 6:14 pm 
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The Silent Administrator
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I was looking over the 97 Galant DOHC picture overview of the vacuum routing and fuel vapor control. What a rats nest!

With whatever solenoids will work, you can use any scheme you want as long as it serves to operate the system using factory piping/pickup points on the intake/TB.

You will have to tap back into the TB or get some proper vacuum sources near the TB if it turns out the source is supposed to be there and to operate properly.

EGR is a good thing for many reasons, especially if this is a daily driver with a catalytic converter installed. You will pass again, 2 years later with no issues if the system is treated to EGR and using the Catalytic properly.

Luckily with the base EGR setup, you don't have to use the California temp sensor setup and it is not duty cycled to operate the EGR. The old system uses the wax pellet thing at the thermostat housing that allows vacuum to pass to the EGR once the car is warmed up enough. So you now have master control of what you want to accomplish for your pops!


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2015 6:33 pm 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood

Joined: Fri Feb 22, 2008 12:50 am
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Location: Lakewood Ranch, FL
I agree with your statement about matching the EVAP sensor to the ECU. Good point and the ECU is a 1g Non-Turbo 91-94 ECU. I'll be looking for a 1g sensor, but I'm not sure what the part number is for that sensor as of now. From the technical documents I've read from Mitsu, the EVAP seems very simple for a NA car. It seems to get a little more complicated with the vacuum hose routing when it integrates with EGR and with the turbo models (probably due to pressures above atmospheric). I'll tackle that later as I don't have TB vaccum ports to use. As for EVAP, it should be as simple as putting the EVAP solenoid in between the hose coming from the charcoal canister and the intake manifold. The ECU will trigger the solenoid to open and close allowing the vapor to be pulled from the canister into the intake manifold by vacuum. Am I grossly oversimplifying this system with the perspective that I will be running it independent of EGR?


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2015 6:47 pm 
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The Silent Administrator
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Quote:
It seems to get a little more complicated with the vacuum hose routing when it integrates with EGR and with the turbo models (probably due to pressures above atmospheric).
I would hazard the guess that none of the systems (EGR/Evap/FPR) function at boost situations (or probably wouldn't be triggered by the ECU at that stage), so it is just a matter of figuring out what needs to operate and when. I bet you could copy the 1G NA vacuum hose setup/EGR and you would be fine. But yes, you would need the pickup points at the TB I believe.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2015 8:04 pm 
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There is a nipple on the 2g I/M if that helps. I did block the ones on the T/B thinking I'd never need them. I guess it would be easy enough to take one of those set screws back out and find a small tube the same size and JB Weld it in the hole.

Another reason why I love NC. If its a 95 or older you can pretty much get away with anything.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2016 1:37 pm 
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Location: new jersey
If it only failed visual it's because it's not there. just get a charcoal canister and a egr solenoid in there and run some vacuum lines make sure all 3 lines are connected.and get a dummy plug for the solenoid. I have a egr solenoid from a 1.6t. If it already passed emissions.thenot all it have to do is pass with those in place.correct?


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2016 4:18 pm 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood

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Location: Lakewood Ranch, FL
Quote:
There is a nipple on the 2g I/M if that helps.
Yeah that one will come in handy. Looks like I missed the solenoid that you had installed on the firewall that is actually wired into the harness, but does not have any vac lines running to it. It looks like the EVAP solenoid and has K5T43983 stamped on the back. This is different than the other two solenoids I had in my parts bin, so that is promising. I'll be looking into that to verify this is indeed the EVAP solenoid. If so, thanks Chris because that will save me about 30 minutes of having to wire in a new connector cleanly and source a connector pin for the ECU.
Quote:
If it only failed visual it's because it's not there. just get a charcoal canister and a egr solenoid in there and run some vacuum lines make sure all 3 lines are connected.and get a dummy plug for the solenoid. I have a egr solenoid from a 1.6t. If it already passed emissions.thenot all it have to do is pass with those in place.correct?
Yes, I could just do a "dummy" installation to get it to pass visual, but since we have emissions in most of the Northern Virginia counties, it makes more sense for me to do it right and have it operational, at least in my opinion. If it was an insane amount of work, I would entertain the "dummy" install, but I'd prefer to do it right if it'll only take a small amount of extra time to have a functioning system.

I will post back with final results, and I appreciate all the feedback guys!


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2016 7:48 pm 
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Triple bank of solenoids: Ebay advert


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2016 4:27 pm 
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The happy administrator
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How close do they look? Connect some lines to the can and run them up under the intake manifold.

_________________
Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2016 10:41 pm 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood

Joined: Fri Feb 22, 2008 12:50 am
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Location: Lakewood Ranch, FL
Final results were that everything worked out as planned. Luckily, Chris had left the EVAP solenoid on the firewall and it was already wired to boot! All I had to do was install the 1g DSM turbo charcoal canister I had in my spare parts bin. I mounted it under the brake booster. I then ran a line from the tank vent line to the "TO VENT" connector on the canister. I then ran a line from the "TO A/C" connector on the canister to the EVAP solenoid, and then the other connection on the EVAP solenoid to the intake manifold. I'm not sure if "orientation" matters here but I followed the vac diagram for a 1g DSM turbo as far as how the lines were connected to the two connections on the EVAP solenoid (I can't recall that orientation off the top of my head). I know the vac diagram shows this line running to a port on the throttle body. I tried to find a diagram that shows how the ports on the throttle body flow through the throttle body, but was unsuccessful. Running the connection directly to an open connection on the intake manifold worked perfectly and emissions decreased as a result on the follow up emission test.

Thanks again for the feedback and input guys. I just put a couple coats of wax on to prep for winter. Hopefully we can continue to escape the snow here in DC area but I fear those days are getting numbered. I'm sure those north of the Mason Dixon line are chuckling right now :D


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2016 5:52 pm 
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We be buried in slush and the freezin' temps on the daily. Yes.

Happy to hear that your emissions setup is working well now. It's kind of nice when you step out of your car and you don't smell like you've just been mowing your grass.

I think everyone except those with electric mowers, will get that reference.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2020 5:49 am 
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I know this is an old thread, does anyone has a diagram on this setup on 4g15's


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2020 7:43 pm 
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Board index » Forum News/Info » News from the Admins Mitsubishi Factory Service Manuals - to include 3G 89-92 CSM and so much more ...


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