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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 7:05 pm 
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I replaced my factory turbo arms with hyundai control arms a few days ago and am now having issues with the passenger side cv shaft slipping out of the tranny enough to leak gear oil. The c clip might be too old to hold it in or maybe because of the difference in camber the axle isn't long enough. Drivers side is holding fine with no issues. Alignment has been done and new camber bolts were used. Anyone else having issues like this with hyundai elantra control arms? Or is my axle shot? Nonetheless, I have a new axle arriving tomorrow, hopefully it will alleviate the issue.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 7:56 pm 
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I believe the hyundai CA's are longer and people usually use them with DSM axles which are also longer. Try measuring them, that'll tell you for sure.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 9:59 pm 
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Elantra arms are longer. You need direct replacement Mirage/Colt lower control arms.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 10:53 pm 
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Quote:
Elantra arms are longer. You need direct replacement Mirage/Colt lower control arms.
I'm not going to spend another 200 bucks on a control arm setup.

I have a 1990 dsm awd axle on order I'm hoping its not too long. So no cut and dry solution for this problem? I know people are running the elantra arms.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 12:14 am 
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If you refuse to spend more $ but can weld... make a jig with your old arms, and cut the offending length out of the hyundai arms and weld back together with a gusset to reinforce the weld, not ideal, but cheap, and if WELDED RIGHT it'll hold fine. This is how I fit the longer CSM axles in my Scoupe, but in reverse. I actually had to add over an inch to my stock arms, then got insane camber, torque steer, kickback, etc.

Changing suspension pickup points from factory is not to be taken lightly, it took a lot of work to get that car even close to not scary to drive after putting longer control arms into my stock suspension, and short of modifying pretty much all the other suspension points and maybe even the steering rack location, Your ackerman angle, scrub radius, roll radius, camber gain, "dave point" and steering axis inclination can all be thrown off, you'll learn a lot about suspension though !!


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 8:39 am 
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If you refuse to spend more $ but can weld..ligament shop jig with your old arms, and cut the offending length out of the hyundai arms and weld back together with a gusset to reinforce the weld, not ideal, but cheap, and if WELDED RIGHT it'll hold fine. This is how I fit the longer CSM axles in my Scoupe, but in reverse. I actually had to add over an inch to my stock arms, then got insane camber, torque steer, kickback, etc.

Changing suspension pickup points from factory is not to be taken lightly, it took a lot of work to get that car even close to not scary to drive after putting longer control arms into my stock suspension, and short of modifying pretty much all the other suspension points and maybe even the steering rack location, Your ackerman angle, scrub radius, roll radius, camber gain, "dave point" and steering axis inclination can all be thrown off, you'll learn a lot about suspension though !!
The car handles fine, if not better than before. Its been to the alignment shop and lines up fine. This isn't a problem with suspenaion geometry, its a problem with the drivetrain.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 12:08 pm 
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After a couple hours of searching I came up with no definitive answer besides the fact that the hub seal is not really compatible with a awd dsm axle. I have read that some got away with running a different axle seal (hyundai of some sort) but I haven't found a part number yet or year, make, model. If anyone is running this setup please chime in. Thanks.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 12:42 pm 
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Pretty sure it was Coltsfan that posted up about that seal, maybe shoot him a pm.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 12:52 pm 
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Thanks mirageman. PM'D him.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 2:12 pm 
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Your old axle clip is probably worn out. There's no way the little extra length will cause your axle to pop out. It might pull the axle out of the inner cup or tear the boot but not pull the cup out of the transmission. IDK about yall but it is always a PITA to pull the axles out of the transmission.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 3:01 pm 
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Location: Tucson, AZ
Quote:
Your old axle clip is probably worn out. There's no way the little extra length will cause your axle to pop out. It might pull the axle out of the inner cup or tear the boot but not pull the cup out of the transmission. IDK about yall but it is always a PITA to pull the axles out of the transmission.
IDK man, I think the axle c clip is the weak point in that line.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 6:44 pm 
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its not the clip.. the elantra lca's are slightly wider than the csm ones.. this lets u use the easier to get dsm axles (which are also slightly longer than the csm ones).. but the dsm outter cv is larger than the csm one so in order to use a dsm axle u need the correct seal so the dsm axle will fit..

I know this because these lca's came off my car running the dsm axles.. but it was back in 09 when I put the car together and dont remember the part number for the seal.

so get the new seal (probably just need the one for that side)..and a dsm axle and all should be good.


Steve

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 6:50 pm 
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Quote:
Quote:
If you refuse to spend more $ but can weld..ligament shop jig with your old arms, and cut the offending length out of the hyundai arms and weld back together with a gusset to reinforce the weld, not ideal, but cheap, and if WELDED RIGHT it'll hold fine. This is how I fit the longer CSM axles in my Scoupe, but in reverse. I actually had to add over an inch to my stock arms, then got insane camber, torque steer, kickback, etc.

Changing suspension pickup points from factory is not to be taken lightly, it took a lot of work to get that car even close to not scary to drive after putting longer control arms into my stock suspension, and short of modifying pretty much all the other suspension points and maybe even the steering rack location, Your ackerman angle, scrub radius, roll radius, camber gain, "dave point" and steering axis inclination can all be thrown off, you'll learn a lot about suspension though !!
The car handles fine, if not better than before. Its been to the alignment shop and lines up fine. This isn't a problem with suspenaion geometry, its a problem with the drivetrain.
What aluma scoupe is getting at is everything past static alignment in the median position.

For any axle shaft an corresponding joints to work properly, you need to know the dimensions you should be working for the center shaft portion.

If Elantra LCAs are used, whatever distance they push the knuckle out, is how much further the center portion of the axle should be lengthened.

Without seeing the before and after in degrees, regarding your alignment, it would be hard to determine just how much each angle change with your wider track and extra camber has been accomplished. I suspect you now feel it corner a little tighter, amongst other characteristics.

My opinion, we all (with factory knuckles, LCAs and strut mounts and hardware, have drastically changed the factory angles with a drop of more than an inch.

Most of the time, this doesn't cause the car to handle all that bad, maybe better according to the butt dyno/hand of god on the steering wheel effects.

Elantra control arms can be modified, they need an exact cut behind the spot where it bolts up, another sleeve of material removed behind that, and weld the first cut piece back in. If need be, te lower ball joint holes could be slightly elongated to allow for correction, and once the proper specs are determined, weld in washers that are used with the 3 bolts/nuts that sandwich the control arm.

To me, $200 for new parts is the way to go, or find a center axle shaft compatible with the inner/outer cups and have at it.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 6:57 pm 
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Location: Tucson, AZ
Quote:
its not the clip.. the elantra lca's are slightly wider than the csm ones.. this lets u use the easier to get dsm axles (which are also slightly longer than the csm ones).. but the dsm outter cv is larger than the csm one so in order to use a dsm axle u need the correct seal so the dsm axle will fit..

I know this because these lca's came off my car running the dsm axles.. but it was back in 09 when I put the car together and dont remember the part number for the seal.

so get the new seal (probably just need the one for that side)..and a dsm axle and all should be good.


Steve
Do you remember year make and model of the seal?


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 9:35 am 
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Location: Tucson, AZ
I have a 4g axle from a manual 1.8 Mirage that will be at the parts store today. I don't know if it will work but we will see. I will post results. I am having pop out on the passenger side, I think this axle is more likely to work than a drivers side axle.


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