4g61t.org

Over the years our cars have the injectors removed nearly dozens of times, or they are upgraded, and often times their wire connectors are in pretty rough shape, due to age, the previous owner, or common newbie mistakes during removal/ installation.

now there are a number of ways to upgrade the wire connectors, one is rather crude and requires you to cut the old connectors off, and solder the new ones in, but I decided to show how to reuse the old wires cause i'm pretty sure everyone can cut and solder on there own.
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Image above: this is a mocked up jdm evo head,1G intake,my custom cop setup,and an old 1gb n/t junkyard engine harness, used for our little demonstration.

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Image above:this is what commonly happens to old injector connectors on our cars this is due to age, and or abuse...totally not cool.

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Image above: using a handy 45* pick, pry the red tab off the injector connector.

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Image above: using a straight pick carefully pry the connector lock and lightly pull on the wires, it takes some skill so if it gives you trouble take your time it will eventually come off.

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Image above: this is a break down of what it all looks like... well to be quite honest, you could practically destroy all the plastic in the above image, [if you had to] to get the metal crimp ends out, but I thought it best to show a simple break down for now.

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Image above: now here is the 2g dsm style connector it is available on other cars too
I got my connectors off of a V6 chrysler sebring/avenger, but I have also saw them on plymouth/dodge neons, and they are likely on other cars too.

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Image above: using, yet again a handy pick, remove the plastic retainer clip, easy as pie.

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Image above: here I am, using that thing I mentioned earlier [skill], and carefully taking the pins out of the upgrade connector [it was actually easier then on the old style ones].

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Image above: here it is, the new style connector, all the way dissembled.

Now reverse the order of disassembly, only there are a few matters I ran into...
the metal pins have a tab on them that lock them into the plastic connectors, and they are not the same on the older style connector, but the gray plastic tab will keep them from flying out, now to fix this the metal pin can be bent in such a way so it dose lock into the connector which is what I did.
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Image above: here it is installed on our mock up fuel rail.

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Image above: here is the rest of them, I need do this four more times, so I gotta go hope you enjoyed the post.

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Abe

I want to say Dodge Caravan also.



My post last night: http://www.4g61t.org/forum/viewtopic.ph ... 8&start=90

I have saved the green colored terminals once before, and it's just not worth having an injector lean out because current is being sapped across a highly resistant corroded terminal, with varying degrees of pin grip/pin retension. So, I spliced out as much wire as I could, given the amount of wire that was supplied on the end of each pig tail connector.

Great write-up, helps many people to figure out how these pins/terminals are connected.

Thanks for your input flying eagle, I wanted to show how to bend the metal clips on the connectors, but my camera cant really focus on little metal pins so well, but again if others feel more comfortable splicing and wiring them in more power to them.
I have skill soldering too, so I don't mind going that route ether.

Also I was wondering what you guys think of my custom cop setup, mind you it is a work in progress, but none the less i'm curious to know would bmw bremi plug top coils be ideal on a 4G63T, or should I use some other coils, I can make a low buck spark plug cover to fit just about any cop, so that is no issue for me.

are there any other plug top coils that are known for high output/reliability, I chose the bmw ones cause they are usually subjected to high engine temperatures, albeit under a plastic cover on stock bmw motor]
thanks again.

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Abe

I cannot say what coils work best or not. You have to be careful to matching the coils to the ECU/transistor setup. Might be a good idea to get this question answered by someone who knows a bit more about it. Essentially, you can learn a crap-ton from this thread here: http://www.galantvr4.org/ubbthreads/sho ... PHPSESSID=

Don't want to draw too much current and you have to worry about coil saturation ..... timings .... and so on. Not my forte.

P.S. Don't forget to add your location to your profile please.

Great write-up! I will be tackling this on my na dsm harness before I put it in the summit. The 97-98 Galants also have the newer style plugs as well, FYI.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

Thanks for the link.

yeah I like doing write ups every once and a while.
I have a few spare turbo harness's, so i'm gonna do this mod to all of them, and ounce and for all, say good by to hunting on the ground for those pesky metal paper clips.

this mod gives me piece of mind, no more worrying about a fuel injector connector coming loose, which would no doubt cause a lean condition, and obviously blow the motor.

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Abe

I recently broke a CAS connector. I think the procedure is similar?

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05 wrx wagon
99 Benz ML 320
91 eagle summit swapped - 6/4 bolt combo
94 Audi s4 - sold
88 Eagle Vista Turbo LX sedan, RIP

If you have a CAS with a pigtail ending in a connector, then yes, a similar "pick the retainer pin element" will always be present.