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Have you tried it without all of the "extra" electronics hooked up? Maybe something is putting an extreme load on it. When you yank a battery while the car is running, it should not start the belt squealing. Also, if the alternator is from AutoZone, Oreilly's, etc..., then the issue could be that. They rebuild the alternators, but they can't seem to handle heat from exhaust without the shields/wrap. I had 5 alternators die within a year. Finally took one and had a local auto electrical shop rebuild it for me, still running strong after a year.

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Thom
1991 GVR4 1025/2000 (PTE 1200's, 16g, DSMLink v3, gm-maf, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's, EVO VIII Wheels)
1992 GVR4 866/1000 (getting everything from above)

Do you have heat shields in place around the alternator and just as important, the exhaust manifold and turbo/downpipe?

Were the 11V volts the low swing as the motor is cranking or is that the output you are seeing as the engine is idling cold?

Driving around and seeing 13-14V is fine given a certain temperature range, just remember the alternator setup has a temp sensing function to know when to charge at a higher voltage, ie cold temps and a battery down to half potential needing this shock, and then come down as things warm up.

Assuming you have not tried removing the power steering belt to isolate the squeal, then you have a bad component making that noise. Given the noise only occurs with electrical load, or so it would appear, then I'm leaning towards the alternator having taken a dump. Did this new alternator do this right away?

90 amp GVR4 alternator installed after mine took a shit after only one year. And it still fruit and banana squeals!!!! Could it be the small battery? Belt alignment?

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95 Mirage S Sedan- Evo III Project {In Process}
91 Talon TSi AWD- SOLD
91 Mirage 4dr 4G63T -Daily
2016 Ford Edge Titanium -2L.0T AWD Wife
facebook.com/modicausmc

Still squealing? Good grief. Unless you have a stupid massive load on it, then it might me the belt alignment.

_________________
Thom
1991 GVR4 1025/2000 (PTE 1200's, 16g, DSMLink v3, gm-maf, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's, EVO VIII Wheels)
1992 GVR4 866/1000 (getting everything from above)

Well, get someone to wrap an amp clamp over the alternator wire while it is running and squealing. Compare squealing and non-squealing amperage. If not belt alignment, then some strange full load, but for it to scream like that, even fully loaded it should not so that short of belt tension issues. Anyone local to you that is good with DSM's??? Or belts and alternators in general???

I have a few people that are good with DSM's but they are stumped. after the car stops squealing the RPM's raise about 500 RPMS. the only way to stop the squeal is to over tighten the belt. The last time i did that it warped the water pump arm that connects to the pulleys... i think the water pump pulley may be mis-aligned, and this 90 amp GVR4 alternator will not power the 400 watt amp and the sub barely works, big battery and relocation to trunk it is i guess

_________________
95 Mirage S Sedan- Evo III Project {In Process}
91 Talon TSi AWD- SOLD
91 Mirage 4dr 4G63T -Daily
2016 Ford Edge Titanium -2L.0T AWD Wife
facebook.com/modicausmc

Sounds like it is probably time to check the battery or temporarily install a large battery and see how the system reacts. I wouldn't recommend a small battery in a car that runs a large amp, but technically an alternator is producing the current with the car running.

How many ground wires do you have and where do they go to/from?

I almost wonder if the sensing circuitry is harmed in some way, so when the alternator field is turned on, it is always 100% versus varied load as it should be. I would explain a stupid hard load for the motor and belt, and at low rpms, more likely to squeal. Just throwing out an idea, as I have usually seen the opposite, whereby alternators fielding circuit or L terminal fails to get a signal.