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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 11:32 am 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood
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Location: Seattle, WA
Previous owner and myself have tried for years to stop the car from the ear piercing 30 squeal everytime the car starts but can't seem to fix it.
Changed:
Crank pulley
Alternator (new)
Power steering pump (not the problem)
Belts (like 15 F***ING times!!)

Things I'm starting to suspect,
Odyssey racing battery and a lot of electronics wired to it


Lately ill warm up the car for ten minutes and as soon as I turn on the headlights or blower motor for heat the car instantly starts squealing. My question is because of the small battery could the alternator be squealing because of all the work it has to do?
Has this happened to anyone before?
It's extremely annoying and embarrassing guys

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 2:03 pm 
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Yes, the alternator is too weak to power everything. so it squeals on load. Try the Saturn (115+ amp) alternator mod, or get a Galant VR4 alternator (it is 95 amps). The 65amp (manual) or 75amp (auto) alternators that are stock for CSM/DSM's really struggle to power anything beyond OEM electronics.

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1991 GVR4 1025/2000 (PTE 1200's, 16g, DSMLink v3, gm-maf, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's, EVO VIII Wheels)
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 5:55 pm 
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AWESOME. if I were to do the order the Saturn alternator what model and engine and year would I be ordering it for??

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 6:44 pm 
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I cant remember the exact year range. Mid 90's I believe. Search on dsmtuners, they have a sticky on it

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1991 GVR4 1025/2000 (PTE 1200's, 16g, DSMLink v3, gm-maf, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's, EVO VIII Wheels)
1992 GVR4 866/1000 (getting everything from above)


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 11:19 pm 
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The happy administrator
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Location: Wisconsin
The stock alts really suck, gone through 3 of them so far. The only real electronic item I have is the blower for the heater and it does the same thing for me.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 11:33 pm 
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My experience has been the opposite for the alternator and loads/belt noise.

I run the higher amp option for the Colt, so that makes it probably a 75+ amp DSM unit that I am using right now, and with proper belt tension and pulleys that are nowhere near new, I have zero noise issues. If you have noise, then something is wrong. Pulley alignment is possible, bearings in a component, but not much else if parts are new.

So, only when loaded. What RPM is the engine at via logging when you get loads on it? Idle speed unloaded? Also full cold start, idle speed rev up to 12-1500+ RPM and hold for a bit? FIAV blockoff performed?


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 7:24 am 
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If it does it when he turns on the electronics in the car, it has to be alt related.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 4:52 pm 
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Location: BC, Canada
Are you tightening the belt properly? I have found that sometimes you really have to tighten the alt belt in order to get rid of cold moring squeels. You should not be able the twist the alt belt more then 90 degrees. If you can you need to tighten it moar.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 9:35 pm 
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Quote:
So, only when loaded. What RPM is the engine at via logging when you get loads on it? Idle speed unloaded? Also full cold start, idle speed rev up to 12-1500+ RPM and hold for a bit? FIAV blockoff performed?

Also need to know voltages as well at startup, high idle with squeal loads/no loads, and hot idle loads/no loads (ie headlamps/high beams, rear defrost both on).


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 3:19 am 
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Make sure your water pump pulley isn't bolted on backwards.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 6:07 am 
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You can try a Gates racing alt. belt. They are decently priced, think I got mine for around $30-40. BUT, I think your issue is elsewhere.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 12:18 am 
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yeah the belt is with in specs and i have tried over tightening the belt, the squeal went away but it ended up bending the arm of my water pump and creating a wobble that eventually started throwing my belts off so I had to change the water pump, on start up voltage is around 11v and will squeal loudly at 1600 rpm then when squealing stops after 30 seconds rev to 2000 rpms until it is warmed up, my idle is 750-780 rpms and as soon as i turn on the lights, turn up the system or defrosters etc a very faint squeal starts then if i hit the throttle it raises the dead till i get over 2k rpms, pulleys are not on backwards and belts are aligned perfect, ill take a video tomorrow and upload it on here so you can see it, after xmas im gonna get the VR4 alt and hope it goes away, if it dosnt then im getting a full size battery and relocating it to the trunk

come to think of it i left the lights on the other day and had to jump the car, she squealed on start up but then when it stopped i took off the cables and as soon as i did it started to squeal again for almost a minute of reving to try and stop it, has to be the alternator output

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91 Talon TSi AWD- SOLD
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 5:06 am 
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i have a pc680 with the stock GT alt, and it never squeels at all.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 8:53 am 
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If you are only putting out 11v something is not right. Either the battery is dying or the alternator is dying. With a properly charging alternator you should be seeing a minimum of 13v.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 12:08 pm 
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At start up the battery drains to 11v I see a constant 13-14 while driving. The battery is 2 years old and the alt has like 3000 miles on it

_________________
95 Mirage S Sedan- Evo III Project {In Process}
91 Talon TSi AWD- SOLD
91 Mirage 4dr 4G63T -Daily
2016 Ford Edge Titanium -2L.0T AWD Wife
facebook.com/modicausmc


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