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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 10:08 pm 
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Location: Pittsfield, ME
Okay so, I got a little board today and went out to my car and pulled the ECU. I took it out and took the top cover off. I immediatly started smelling and nothing really smelled "fishy" it was a little musty smell or "old" smell like stale air or something, but not fishy as far as I could tell. Looking at the board originally when I opened it nothing looked burnt. No dark spots I even checked the cover I pulled off to see if the metal was discolored at all like it got extreme heat, but nothing. I pulled the back off and again no burns nothing seemed out of place.

Looking closer into the board I noticed around the capacitors it looked different then the rest of the board. Looking closer I found something which I'm not sure what it means. The places where all the little resistors, capacitors, and other small things that were soldered to the board were green. Almost like corrosion on the board, i smelled closer and again it smelled "old". The protective clear plastic over some of the copper channels was gone. There were no holes and it looks like I may be able to clean the board if I can find something that is safe to remove the corrosion without damaging the board. I'm not sure if the capacitors leaked causing corrosion with the electricity and copper that the acid was covering. I have attached some pictures to the bottom showing some images. Before I go and try to replace the capacitors and cleaning the ECU I wanted to hear everyone opinion.

Something seems off with that area's looks. I'm not sure if something is wrong, it doesn't look how most people describe and there is no smell so again any help would be appreciated before I take the time to repair this board (the board could be destroyed with the corrosion, I'm not sure), or replace the board if this one is too far gone, or look at other options if this board is fine and the signs I see mean nothing and corrosion on old boards is common.


Pics will be on here shortly!


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 10:40 pm 
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Does it look something like this:

Image
Image
Image


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 3:09 am 
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Yes there is just a green corrosion on each of the contacts, I have been cleaning with iso alcohol and may try a baking soda mixture to clean the corossion off, any ideas how to clean the board before I change the capacitors ?


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 3:14 am 
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Here is a sample of the corossion I hope the board isn't to far gone



Image


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 2:30 pm 
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The board may be savable, but you will pay someone a lot to repair it. Your best option is to purchase a unit in good working order. This is definitely the source of your issues.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 25, 2012 11:31 pm 
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Okay so I ordered the three capacitors needed (47amf 50v, 22amf 50v, and 100amf 25v) online for about 10 dollars shipped. I have the soldering set to replace the resistors.

Shortly after I order the parts I get a PM from someone who just did a swap and offered me everything I mentioned that I need to fix the car. The ecu, mfi relay, distributor, coolant temp sensor, and thermostat, tps, and maf. One way or another I'm hoping to solve the problem.

I was going to attempt to repair my board, but I figured it would be better to replace them on the new one I am getting before they go and ruin that one as well. Ill post pictures to the repair process.

As soon as I get the car back together, I will be doing alot of work and alot of modifications to it that I will be updating as well. I like the car and now that I can get it going and hopefully get 35+mpg, there will be many changes to come.

Glad I went from possible scrap yard to fun project with this car.
Well worth the $300 bucks delieverd now :supz:


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 26, 2012 12:57 am 
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I am in no way saying you cannot fix that board. But the success rate of individuals that don't repair printed circuitry for a living is very low. Or the repair does not last long.Your best bet is to acquire a working ECU and send it to the guys at ECMLink for the capacitors to be replaced.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 26, 2012 1:16 am 
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Ya that's what I will probablly do


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2012 12:56 pm 
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Well I got my slew of parts today including my new ECU I put it in the car and ran it.

The car ran great and then it just die again after putting a good ecu in it.
Now though instead of it staying dead for days it will start right up after it dies but die again, I'm thinking temp sensor but I want to know everyone's opinion on what may cause this keep in mind it is less then 30 degrees out , I'm at a loss.

:weedman:


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2012 1:09 pm 
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Okay as well wondering if it was the coolant temp sensor that was reading the hot coolant wrong I pulled the temp sensor but left it plugged in and plugged the hole, I figured that since it runs fine until its hot if the temp sensor was reading the 30 degrees that it is outside it would help troubleshoot but it just died the same as if the temp sensor was plugged in. I have a bunch of other parts I can try but do not know where to begin. I'm leaning to fuel pump again even though I hooked a gauge to the fuel line and its running about 35-40psi in the fuel lines

never been this stumped with a diagnosis before...


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2012 1:13 pm 
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Can you keep it running if you keep your foot on the gas, effectively keeping the idle speed controller out on the loop?

A new temp sensor, probably like $10 online or at a parts store. The connector could be corroded too but increased resistance only makes the computer think it is colder outside, but that will only make the car run somewhat better as it gets colder outside. You have the exact opposite. Where did that ECU come from?


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2012 1:20 pm 
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I got the ECU from a running car from a memeber on this site he sent me a bunch of parts. Even if I am in the throttle it will die. Like I said I pulled the temp sensor, plugged the hole, and started the car with the temp sensor outside the engine and it did the exact same thing.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2012 1:29 pm 
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I wonder if there is a safety switch for oil pressure, my oil is old and I know some cars have a safety switch that if the oil gets low or old it will make it so the car will not run until its fixed and where its cold out maybe the engine heat is making the oil in the car thinner causing the sensor to kill the motor but I'm not sure if this engine had a safety switch.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2012 1:36 pm 
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No failsafes on our cars, except turbo models that restrict boost with a solenoid when your engine is knocking and is detected as such. Oil change will help keep things clean inside, that is all. Once the car runs right, then change the oil.
So, your car probably has an issue with some system then, assuming a good ECU <- likely the case now.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2012 1:39 pm 
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I highly doubt the ECU, I have 3 ECU's here and I have tried all 3 with the same problem. So I am doubting the ECU the odds all 3 are bad I know one is but the other 2 were working recently. I am about to go change the entire distributor, I'm thinking it may be an issue with the coil, CPS, or something so I am just going to change it all right now to see. I'm running out of ideas and this is getting frustrating lol

If you can think of any other scenarios let me know I am open to all ideas.


:weedman:


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