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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2012 1:41 pm 
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The Silent Administrator
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Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 3:32 pm
Posts: 9524
Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Did your car ever start, and instantly idle up as high as 1800-2000 (really cold weather, cold start) or 1500 warmer weather and stay there? This is how the idle circuit is supposed to work, and if standard shift will bring the idle down to around 1000 after your first couple of stops, until it slowly brings idle down as you approach normal operating temperature. Been a while since I drove the 1.5 but that was dead on for how it used to work for me, during the colder weather. I your car never idled up this high or will not instantly after starting, then your ISC is pooched or wiring/connector or driver in the ECU (worst case).


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2012 3:10 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 12, 2012 8:47 pm
Posts: 29
Location: Pittsfield, ME
No it idles fine , discouragement is setting in.

I'm in the middle of changing the distributor but it's snowing and 30 here so it's causing me to have to take breaks.

I love the car so much and have great plans but was hoping I could daily the car, but I may just rally style the car .


:weedman:


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 3:52 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 12, 2012 8:47 pm
Posts: 29
Location: Pittsfield, ME
IT'S ALIVE!

I swapped the distributor and it works perfect so far no more dying, I'm getting a new coolant temp sensor, valve cover gasket, oil and coolant change, new cat, and painted winter camo tomorrow !!

Thanks everyone for your suggestions.

I have a build thread going in this site too if you want to follow my build progress.

:weedman:


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 10:36 pm 
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The Silent Administrator
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Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 3:32 pm
Posts: 9524
Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Sounds like a weak component in the old distributor. Wonder what it was? Let us know if it continues to run strong and trouble free.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 8:34 am 
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Joined: Thu Mar 01, 2012 9:01 am
Posts: 198
Location: Canton, GA
Glad to hear my parts have a good home, and are able to get your car running.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2012 10:31 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 12, 2012 8:47 pm
Posts: 29
Location: Pittsfield, ME
Changed ecu, changed distributor, new oil change and I have already put over 450 miles on this car in two days , two snowy days (this car rocks in the snow) but it hasn't skipped a beat yet.... Now to start building the 4g63 for her this winter ;)


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 3:41 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2012 1:41 am
Posts: 69
Location: BC, Canada
hahah reading the post i was thinking coilpack (inside the dizzy i believe) the whole time...... I have had the same symtoms and stuff happen to me on hondas and it was always the distributer or coilpack inside of it to be exact that caused the problem.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 12:38 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 12, 2012 8:47 pm
Posts: 29
Location: Pittsfield, ME
Hey guys sorry I have not been on recently I have been super busy with the holidays and all. I did get the car fixed I got a used computer that was mint with no problems and a used distributor that was pulled from a running car. The car purred, it ran and started great with no issues at all. I ended up putting about 2000 miles on it in 8 days, and it ran perfect.

Well it died again last week just driving up i95 it shut off 100 yards from the exit. I got it home and was going to diagnose. The car started and ran the next day when I left it over night on the battery charger, then after 10-15 mins it would die and just turn over again like it did when I bought it except now it just turns over. I got fuel pressure and the air is fine the only thing I'm going back to is spark. So I started looking at plugs, those were fine, changed the wires, and still nothing. I decided to chance wires and see if there was a short and saw a cut wire. It was a wire that goes to a condensor on the distributor Im not sure when and how it was cut but it was. My question is if that condensor was not hooked up could it keep frying coils in the distributor? I'm thinking about buying a new condensor and coil and rebuilding the distributor. I took a coil from the old distributor to try it and it did nothing but I know I can do the job of changing the parts now.

So I think its the coil because of no spark and I wanted to see your guys opinion. I want to know if the condensor not being attached can fry components if there is an electrical surge or what that specific condensor does.

I know the computer is fine but I'm lost again.

Thank you guys for all your help I love this car but just need it to last the winter so I can build it in the spring.


:weedman:


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 9:18 pm 
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Newbie

Joined: Mon Nov 12, 2012 8:47 pm
Posts: 29
Location: Pittsfield, ME
I found out the only thing the at needs is a new alternator ($85 online shipped) and the condenser hooked up which is a 10$ part. I am not fixing it and am selling the entire car for $500 obo or I'm going to start parting it out next week if no one want it whole. The entire car is there and rolls and with under 100 can run great. I also have a spare computer and a spare throttle body, injectors, and wires. I'd I and keep but I just bought a 1998 Audi A4 Quattro with the 2.8 v6 :) I wanted to get something AWD .

So pm me for questions and parts pricing and if I don't sell it whole this week ill part it out and at that time ill post prices and parts

Trades welcome and very willing to negotiate
Make an offer


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 9:24 pm 
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Newbie

Joined: Mon Nov 12, 2012 8:47 pm
Posts: 29
Location: Pittsfield, ME
http://maine.craigslist.org/cto/3460854395.html


Craigslist add!


:weedman:


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