4g61t.org

Ok, I have been working on DSMs for long time now so I have ran into so many problems before besides this one. Well, my brother has a 92 awd talon with:

Rebuild 6 bolt block with 8.8:1 venola forged pistons

1g big rods

Stock crank

Balance shafts removed

Stock head (rebuild)

Arps head studs

Felpro head gasket

272 web cams

PTE 50 trim turbo

3 inch exhaust

Sbr exhaust manifold w/ 38mm waste gate turbonetics

Fmic

Greddy type s

Egr block off

Lower half of throttle body block off

Greddy catch can

Ecmlink v3

2g maf

Extrude honed intake manifold

6 bolt intake heat barrier from magnus

Denso 660s injectors

255 walbro

AEM wide band

So here is the problem, the car for what ever reason runs good on a cold start then once
the engine gets hot now starts running pig rich all the way to 10 on the wideband. I did a boost leak test and fix small leaks but currently no leaks what so ever! Brought the fuel pressure down to 28psi and nothing. Swap injectors to 450s, nothing. Made sure base timing was set with timing light, set! Make sure TPS was set correct,set! Double checked my wiring for the 2g maf, check good. Make sure turbo is working, check working good. Stock oxygen sensor is work great, (brand new). So idk I don't get it! What is telling the ECU to run rich?

Any thoughts or suggestions will help me out greatly.

Sounds like a tuning issue via link that is your issue. If you run fine at full rich (cold start), then the ECU is supposed to lean the mixture out as things warm up, in segmented blocks until a preset temp, then I would suspect a tune spec is input wrong or something.
When did it start running like this, and were any changes made at or before that time frame?

Nope, what gets me is when it does this if I hold the throttle for a little while, then it will stay idling then slowly go to 11.2/11.5/12.1 and etc... to 13.7 to 14.8. As soon as you snap the throttle once, it will stall, then start it up again, and the same thing happens again. It's so bad if you try to drive the car it stalls, like 10 times,lol. Idk I never had a DSM run like this.

Tried the link forums yet? Haha

One of my old dsm's did something similar after it warmed up. Ended up being the TPS, I put in a good working one and adjusted it and it was fine after that.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

The TPS is working, and I made sure it was set right. I could replace it and try it. I'll try anything right now at this point,lol.

What does the front O2 sensor read when all this is going on? What about the coolant temp sensor? Could there be a fuel leaking past the diaphram of the fuel pressure regulator? Does the MAF display a normal amount of airflow per rev at idle? Got a log?

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"A good day racing is better than a great day fishing!"

My TPS was working correctly too but once the car warmed up it would start acting up. Not saying this is your problem but I would swap in another one just to eliminate that as the problem.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

The coolant temp sensor is showing its working on link, the fpr is a buschur that bolts right on the rail.

What does the front O2 sensor read when all this is going on?

Could there be a fuel leaking past the diaphram of the fuel pressure regulator? (It would flow into the manifold via the FPR vacuum hose)

Does the MAF display a normal amount of airflow per rev at idle?

Got a log?

_________________
"A good day racing is better than a great day fishing!"

I should of paid attention to the readings, but I know it's cycling.

FPR, I didn't think of that, that's a good one I would have to check that.

Now, I wanted to switch it to HZ but I don't know how.

Ok, so everyone knows, I'm new to ECMLink so to log I know more or less. I can't help I'm a old school DSMer,lol. Give me a SAFC 1 and I can tuned the shit out of it,lol.