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 Post subject: Re: Transmission Swap
PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 10:31 am 
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Joined: Tue Sep 07, 2010 11:56 am
Posts: 73
Location: Smyrna, Georgia
There is one other item I had to modify to get the cables connected to the transmission. The cables would not fit over the two piece clutch cable bracket that is bolted to the transmission by slipping on the clips. I noticed that the angle of the cables were about one inch off of sliding into the bracket, so I took off the bottom piece of the two piece clutch cable bracket and drilled a hole on one side of the bracket to change the angle of the bracket so the cables would fit into the two piece clutch cable bracket. The hole was about 3/8" above the original hole, which was a guess to get everything to fit. Before I drilled the hole, I took the bottom piece of the old non-turbo transmission, which had holes at a different angle. This improved the almost fit, but would not work. It could be possible the the hole I drilled in the bracket was not at the right angle, and may make a difference in the shift. I was hoping someone reading this had the same problem with the shifter cable not fitting the transmission as I did. The linkage is obviously different going from a non-turbo transmission to a turbo transmission. This is the only website that may have any idea what my problem is.

Before I remove the transmission, I will try to make a few more modifications to my cable connection.


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 Post subject: Re: Transmission Swap
PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 6:45 pm 
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Some call me a god
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Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2008 10:34 am
Posts: 2753
Location: Cincinnati
AHHHH now the truth comes out. Yes, that is absolutely your problem. I have had to fabricate my own bracket. It isn't difficult but you absolutely have to get the spacing correct.


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 Post subject: Re: Transmission Swap
PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 11:07 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 07, 2010 11:56 am
Posts: 73
Location: Smyrna, Georgia
Yes! I knew something else was causing my shift linkage not to work properly! I had to do so much getting this transmission to fit properly, it has been hard to figure out why. But after thinking about which gears actually go into gear (1st and 3rd only) and which gears do not go into gear (2nd, 4th, 5th and reverse), something is not set correctly to get the gears to shift correctly. Now all I have to do is figure out how to make my own linkage bracket.

I will reply after I figure out my new bracket angle.


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 Post subject: Re: Transmission Swap
PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2013 5:03 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 07, 2010 11:56 am
Posts: 73
Location: Smyrna, Georgia
I finally got around to re-drilling my mounting bracket so the cables "look" almost the same as I took them off (looking at a previous photo I made). I drilled about 1/16" higher than before to get the angle correct on the bracket.

Now I could get the car to go into the 5 gears (not easily), but not the reverse. The car is still starting in-gear slightly when the clutch is pushed all the way in, so now I am removing everything so I can remove the transmission, and install the washer under the TOB pivot ball.

I will report again after I install the washer under the pivot ball. Hopefully, I can get enough pedal room to disengage the flywheel.


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 Post subject: Re: Transmission Swap
PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2013 8:16 pm 
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The Silent Administrator
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Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 3:32 pm
Posts: 9524
Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
I had a shimmed pivot ball. Pedal was off the floor by a mere inch after installing an MB1-HDSS ACT (2100 updated). Replaced with new OEM master/OEM slave/added 1G braided line and the pedal now engages the clutch half way to the floor. If your bleed isn't good, or your fork isn't moving far enough, as evidenced by getting someone to press the clutch all the way in, and you've checked for pedal free play and adjustment at the master push rod in the car, then look at removing the trans again. Not sure if this was all covered a while back or not. If for any reason the clutch is still contacting, it will eat your syncros in short order when the car hits the road. Morale of my tale, I did need the shim as far as I can tell.


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 Post subject: Re: Transmission Swap
PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 12:14 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 07, 2010 11:56 am
Posts: 73
Location: Smyrna, Georgia
I read your reply and just happened the think :o , I still have my old non-turbo transmission which had the ACT 2100 with a non-sprung disc. So, I got the old tranny out, and took off the TOB to look at the pivot ball.....IT HAD A WASHER UNDER THE PIVOT BALL!!! Being that I have never taken a transmission out before, I would have never thought about looking for a washer under the pivot ball.

Last week I finally got everything disconnected from frame and engine, and should be ready to pull the Transmission out again (for the third time). If this works (which it probably will), I will summarize what you need to think about for a non-turbo transmission swap to a turbo transmission swap.

Thanks for your reply.


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 Post subject: Re: Transmission Swap
PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 10:15 am 
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Joined: Tue Sep 07, 2010 11:56 am
Posts: 73
Location: Smyrna, Georgia
Well I finally got the transmission off, installed the 2.85mm thick washer under the pivot ball, and reinstalled the transmission and hydraulic line only. It seems to go into all 5 gears, but not reverse. I also was trying to adjust the pedal per Jack's Transmission video, but ran into a problem. When I screw the adjustment rod out (clockwise), the slave cylinder never would stop pushing the rod "out" (toward the driver). Then I adjusted the rod counter clockwise, so the pedal was toward the floor as far as it will go. When I tried to move the slave cylinder, it moved toward the engine, so the bleeder valve in the master cylinder was still not closed. Is it possible that my 1989 dodge colt will not adjust? Jack's transmission video was for a 2g DSM transmission.

Can anyone help? Do I need to remove the transmission again, a install another washer on top of the other washer?


Last edited by extreme4g63 on Sun Mar 10, 2013 8:38 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Transmission Swap
PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 9:07 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 07, 2010 11:56 am
Posts: 73
Location: Smyrna, Georgia
Well, I went ahead and took the transmission out today and installed another washer under the washer I already installed. The two washers together total 4.78mm. I then put the transmission back and connected the slave cylinder. With the pedal adjusted all the way toward the floor, the slave rod still travels by pushing with hand toward the engine. I give up :ANAL: Tomorrow, I will finish putting the rest of the car back together and see how it shifts with the motor running.

Does anyone know why I am having this problem?? I already did everything in the yourtube video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYJxQyjIhUw


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 Post subject: Re: Transmission Swap
PostPosted: Mon May 12, 2014 9:04 pm 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood

Joined: Tue May 06, 2014 8:23 pm
Posts: 342
Location: Orlando, fl
Did u ever figure this all out?

_________________
91 Summit hatch "Sunchaser" R.I.P.
94 Mitsubishi Mirage "4dr"
06 Kawasaki Ninja 250r "daily driver"


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 Post subject: Re: Transmission Swap
PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2015 4:48 pm 
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Member

Joined: Tue Sep 07, 2010 11:56 am
Posts: 73
Location: Smyrna, Georgia
I had the Colt towed to Battleground and they looked at the transmission linkage, and determined it just needed a new linkage at the transmission installed, so they made one by welding a piece to the right length.


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