4g61t.org

Well Round 1 is doene on my brake upgrades. All I have to say is they still suck. here is what I have done so far:

Installed Dodge Stealth M/C
Installed Talon FWD Prop Valve
Installed Rear Turbo Discs and Calipers with CF pads
Intalling the Ebrake cables

I have yet to do Install the SS brake lines and front turbo discs with X drilled rotors and CF pads

but I think the Prop valve was a major mistake because right now the pedal feels very firm but it seems like I have no front brakes at all it seems like I have rear their not locking up really but their pis bractially noting frontwise I was hoping it would be good enhough until next weekend when I could do the front but its not I'll have to get them done tomorrow night. I might also have to check and make sure the vacuum booster rod is coming out enough to actuate the M/C right but I spent 9 hours today doing what I listed with various runs to Crappy Tire. I'm exhausted I'll put a more indepth what took so long tomorrow... And how if you do this upgrade you don't end up like me...

You will notice a front brake upgrade alot more than any work done to the back brakes. I upgraded the fronts on my Excel from 228mm solid disks to DBA 330mm vented/drilled/slotted rotors and PBR 2-spot callipers and while the pedal pressure required to brake hasn't changed they are are more progressive. With the Dunlop FM901s 205/40x17s I think I would do an 'endo' before I locked the front brakes...

Well here is an overview of round 1

10 AM Removing Master Cylinder

All the lines came out without issue

10:30 Remove Prop Valve

1 VERY Stubborn Line looked like it was going to break went to crappy Tire to Get a Line In case it snaps.

11:45 Resume Prop Valve

Line decided to come around and work with me.

12:00 PM Installed Prop Valve

12:30 bench bled M/C and Installed unit.

1:15 PM Got the Car jacked and things under way in the rear

Got the Struts unbolted the lines unbolted now time to remove the traling arm bolts 1 problem impact gun won't fit because the gas tank is in the way Put on 2 foot johnson bar the bar was bending and the bolt didn't budge DOH!

1:45

After much cursing and swearing and a quick check of CAPS verified the axles were the same with the disc brakes and the drum brakes so it was decided to remove everything from the stub axles outward and swap onto my current axle.
2:30 Lunch

3:15 While swapping the the discs and hubs etc it was noticed that the brackets the hold the barke lines were infact different between the axles even though the axles were the same PN decisions had to be made on what to do

4:00

We decided to cut the brackets off the old axle and weld them onto my existing axle.

5:00 Brakets Welded time for E brake cables

I cannot stress enough here I am SO glad I got factory E brake cables they just worked I used generic cables on a VW and they didn't fit and were generally awful these were practically a treat for me to install time consuming but worth it. Shockingly I broke no bolts and I figured the side that had the exhaust running on would be the bad side to work with but it wasn't the other side has interference with gas lines exiting the tank it was generally miserable.

6:30 Get the cables connected at both ends and set the tension appropriately.

7:15 Bleed Brakes

8:00 Clean up

I didn't install the secondary SS brake lines (the one from the bracket to the hard lines) the hard line was giving me greif and I was tired so I will gnerously give it lube and try again later.

After all of this though the brakes still feel awful it seems like I only have rear brakes. The pedal is firm but I jam on the brakes there is no nose dive the car just kind of slows down and comes to a stop (I can't even lock up the brakes even if I wanted to) like I said VERY disappointing for a hard days work. It might be something like the Vacuum booster push rod is set improperly or something along those lines. I'm getting new wheel bearings pressed into my spare set of hubs today I'll try tomorrow and see how the brakes are with the X drilled discs on the front (possibly the prop valve is sending the wrong pressure to the front calipers who knows) Anyone have any ideas what I could check?

jack the car up in the air and make sure it really stable start and run the car but dont sit since you got an auto just press the gas while standing to the side(you knwo what i mean) and press the brakes see if they work. or take a sharpie pen and make two line on the rotor and see when braking if they are still there after braking.( i dont knwo hwo good of an idea this is?!?!?!)

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92' Dodge Colt 200GT - 4G63T - Taking Offers.

Here is a pic of my new discs pressed on to my new hubs.

I took a cruty old set of wrecker hubs to a local machine shop he pressed in new wheel bearings nad pressed on my new discs while he had the hubs he sandblasted them and gave them a coat of fres paint theis guy does fantastic work best $80 CDN I've spend on my brakes)

http://www.heckatomb.com//modules.php?s ... _photo.php

http://www.heckatomb.com//modules.php?s ... _photo.php

Just to add more fuel to the fire. I put a set of panther plus pads on my car. Those things are amazing! Much more grip then the metal masters axxis pads that I had on there.

Panther Plus???? where do you get them, price, and how is the brake dust or squeal?

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'89 Plymouth 200GT 4g61t , evo316g, fmic, 1g cams, cyclone intake, 1g throttle body, 2.5 hard pipes, 190 walboro, 650's, 2g o2, 2g ex mani,3" mandrel, ACT 2100, Fidenza flywheel, Unorthodox underdrive pulley, SBR lsd, , AEM wideband, tuned by maf-t, 2" drop, gr-2's, brembo
cross-drilled, metal masters, 205-50 Falken Azenis, etc., 280 whp @ 256 tq

From carbotech, they're custom made, very expensive, squeal like crazy and my wheels are covered in dust after one day. Oh yeah, they also take a couple of stops before they get up to temperature and start working effectively. No lie. But they stop like mad! After I get back from my driver's school this weekend, I'm going to take them off and save them for the next event.

Jason you go to driver's school? Because of an accident or racing school. I;m interested in learning myself.

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92' Dodge Colt 200GT - 4G63T - Taking Offers.

It's a track school. They teach driving lines and car control on a roadcourse.

nice. How expensive is it?

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92' Dodge Colt 200GT - 4G63T - Taking Offers.

I'm doing one too @ summit point. It's costing me $175, I go next week. Not speaking for jason, but I think he mentioned VIR?

EDIT: sorry to hijack your thread berserko. Are those rotors in the pics brembo blanks that that were cross drilled by....KVR? was that the company? Are to holes real clean, I.E. do you forsee any future problems with those rotors cracking or warping from the cross drilling process?

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www.freewebs.com/locost

i'l have to research around here. I'm sure barrie has something.

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92' Dodge Colt 200GT - 4G63T - Taking Offers.

Mine is $225 for two days and 3hrs of track time. Homer, That's a really good price. What club are you racing with?

what kind of cars do you get to drive?

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92' Dodge Colt 200GT - 4G63T - Taking Offers.