4g61t.org

a while ago a few of you were talking about getting new panard rod from Australia. I need one and would like to know where it was you got them from. thanx

maybe it's whiteline? KPR013 is its part number.

their site is www.whiteline.com.au

hth

Using this setup requires either a spacer or a little drilling. Consult me if you have any specific questions.


http://www.colemanracing.com/section/index.htp?id=574

This setup comes with the rod ends. To use it with the stock setup you would need some rod end reducers too. I drilled out my mounts to use the 5/8" rod ends.

or to buy your pieces separately, look at :
http://www.colemanracing.com/section/index.htp?id=639

I think the correct length was 39.5, but I dont remember for sure. Check before you order. They stock the correct length and these guys are the nicest shop in the world to deal with.

Chris

It was whiteline that we were going to use.

The link that rallyguy posted, looks like a better alternative...

If anyone can confirm the correct length, I'll order one. If not, I'll check it tonight.

Rallyguy, how much adjustment in length do you have? What size hole is the stock bolt?

I can confirm the exact length I ordered tonight. The total adjustment length is around 1.5" Based on the McMaster-Carr catalog (not the same parts, but very similar lengths) the thread length of the rod end is 1-5/8". Assuming about 3/16" for a jam nut, and a minimum thread insertion of half the bolt diameter (5/16") you get almost 1" per end of the rod. I assume a safe adjustment length of 1.5" because I like a few extra threads in the rod for me.

The stock bolt holes for the M/C are 12mm (just under 1/2"). Drilling a 5/8 hole through the axle was tough, but not hard, and drilling a 5/8" hole through the body end was very easy. Dont forget to use some kind of captive washer for safety too.

Oh, when I posted correct length, it was for the rod itself!!! I ordered the rod with 3/4" threads, and oversize rod ends which have a 3/4" shank, with a 5/8" mount hole. I can proved part numbers and all tonight if needed.

Chris

Um, what exactly is this for? Why replace the stock panhard bar? Pardon my Mitsu ignorance.

_________________
Early 2000's: 1992 Summit sedan - 14.1 @ 100.9mph w/ 155/80 13s
2012: 1989 Dodge Colt GT Turbo - 14.9 @ 100mph, 10psi/s16G

Don't the old VW's have panhard rods?

Their purpose is to locate the axle. The problem lies in the theory that if they're not horizontal to the ground, then they are applying a force to one side of the car. They become non horizontal when you lower the car. If they apply a force in one direction then the car is going to handle differently depending on which way you turn. There "MAY" also be safety issues involved.

Ah I see. Thanks for the heads up.

As for the VW's, I know the watercooled models (rabbits and up) did not, the rear axle is a torsion beam style. Similar to the Colt, but not requiring a bar. I believe the old air cooled models did have a panhard bar though.

_________________
Early 2000's: 1992 Summit sedan - 14.1 @ 100.9mph w/ 155/80 13s
2012: 1989 Dodge Colt GT Turbo - 14.9 @ 100mph, 10psi/s16G

i still dont see where it goes and what it does...
or maybe im a littlebit retarded

It is a bar that attaches diagonally to the rear beam from one side to the other to aid in handling. I was just not aware how it did so .

_________________
Early 2000's: 1992 Summit sedan - 14.1 @ 100.9mph w/ 155/80 13s
2012: 1989 Dodge Colt GT Turbo - 14.9 @ 100mph, 10psi/s16G

Chris, I noticed on that site that they have a spacer that reduced the rod ends to .5" That's going to result in about 3/4mm of play between the rod ends and the bolt. Do you think there will be a problem with that?

Coltmax, when I pull mine off the car, I'll take a picture for you.

Here's a picture of it on the car: Panhard Rod

THANKS! for the spacer get one machined!! it should cost you 5$ each... not more.

JMauld: If it takes the size down to .5", then you could use a 1/2 inch bolt. I think it would fit through the axle, but maybe not? My engineering cheat sheet shows a clearance hole for a 12mm bolt to be 13mm (so the hole through the axle should be 13mm - .5118").

The VW rear axle is a U shape with the bottom of the U at the mounting point. This setup gives a different style of single wheel compression. So, each wheel is connected to a "leg" that is allowed to flex up. A downside to that setup is that the two wheels are not really connected to each other across the car (to help split the cornering loads). Almost like independant rear suspension. But, there is no panhard bar because the axle is more like a trailing arm in design....sorta

The Mitsu stuff uses a U shape where the wheels are attached to each other and the legs of the U are mounted to the frame. Because the wheels are together, if one wheel wants to be compressed, then they both must tilt (think camber tilting). In order for this to happen, the mounting points must be flexible enough to allow this tilt. (ie thin plate type material that mounts the axle). When those mounts are that flimsy, then the cornering loads would push the axle right out from under the car. Thus, panhard bars. They mount to the frame and locate the axle horizontally under the car. This setup also has a downfall, as the axle moves throughout it's compression, the axle must also move side to side (calculated by the arc movement of the panhard bar as the radius). This also means that the entire cornering force is transferred through the panhard bar into the chassis. ie, a really good reason to beef them up. This is also the reason for reinforcing of the panhard mount at the chassis side. I have personally seen that mount torn off the chassis. I run a second hard mounted bar from the bolt that holds the panhard to the chassis back across the car to the other frame rail. That bar doesnt move, it is part of the chassis.

http://www.geocities.com/colt4rally/old ... upport.jpg

BTW, I did taco a panhard bar rallying last year.

I've actually seen a really slammed 1G eclipse on the side of the road with the axle pushed out the side of the car. I'm willing to bet that it was caused by the bar not being re-adjusted for the lowering.

If you order the bare rod it should be 39". Not sure of the bolt to bolt length.

Chris