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Specializing in the 3g CSM
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2004 12:55 pm 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood

Joined: Sun Aug 11, 2002 6:52 pm
Posts: 256
Location: VA
I've got a question about the seam welding....Do you actually weld a bead down the whole seam, or is it more of a series of spaced-out small beads?

It seems like one long bead on each seam would heat everything up too much (Weaken/ warp/ distort) and do more harm than good, so I'm just curious how it's done properly.

Also, do you weld every seam on the car where 2 or more pieces of factory sheet metal come together? Or just certain seams that are more structural than others (although I guess they're really all structural)?

Thanks

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2004 1:11 pm 
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Nobody Important
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Joined: Fri Jun 28, 2002 2:19 pm
Posts: 1994
Location: Rochester, NY
I look at those control arms/brakes and I just want to cry.

They are almost beyond words.

::sigh::


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 Post subject: cool
PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2004 1:34 pm 
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Member
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Joined: Tue Jan 21, 2003 3:29 pm
Posts: 166
Location: San Jose, CA, USA
The control arms are pretty cool. They are a joint effort with another shop actually making them and owning the jig. They are available on a special order basis. Ask Jason about the lead time though, trust me, dont wait until the last minute!!! They are not for looks, they allow use of TEL spindles with no camber, or axle length issues. Thus, the use of 5 lug, and TEL brakes.

Seam welding is a form of stitch welding. It is generally done about 1 inch of weld, 3-4 inch gap. It is done by picking a seam and doning your 1 inch weld, then picking another seam in a different location and doing a 1 inch seam, then a different location, and so on. Picking as many different seams as possible. It is also generally suggested to do so AFTER a cage is in the car. As you can see, my cage is pretty extensive and holds the car together pretty well. While TIG could concievably offer the least heat, a wire feed is probably the most common. From what I have learned, even the big WRC teams use a wire feed for the seam welding. I do it because it is what I have, and it is really easy. I assume they do it becuase of time, and ease of use. A TIG would be a pain on the seams because lots of stuff can get trapped in the seam and blow out when you start heating it causing the weld to be compromised. This process absoultely sucks and I wouldnt suggest any seam welding unless you have a track car, or a major concern about strength!

As for which seams, it just depends on how crazy you really are, or what you want. I know of several hard driven street cars that are pulling the strut towers away from the body. On this particular car, I seam welded EVERYTHING! That means the underside, door frames, trust me, everything. Some areas get a little more weld, some less. Example, the strut area is 1 on, 2 off; while the doors are 1 on, 6 or 7 off.

Later,
Chris

PS, I have a bunch of new photos since the car is done, but I havent had the time to post, plus the nitty gritty photos are cooler to look at anyway.


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 Post subject: Re: cool
PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2004 1:40 pm 
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Nobody Important
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Joined: Fri Jun 28, 2002 2:19 pm
Posts: 1994
Location: Rochester, NY
Quote:
The control arms are pretty cool. They are a joint effort with another shop actually making them and owning the jig. They are available on a special order basis. Ask Jason about the lead time though, trust me, dont wait until the last minute!!! They are not for looks, they allow use of TEL spindles with no camber, or axle length issues. Thus, the use of 5 lug, and TEL brakes.
Perhaps someday I shall pick up a set, but with what I recall them costing it won't be for a very long time. Until then I shall just drool madly every time I see them.

-paul


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2004 3:44 pm 
Wait until I get mine and hopefully have them powdercoated! :)


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