The control arms are pretty cool. They are a joint effort with another shop actually making them and owning the jig. They are available on a special order basis. Ask Jason about the lead time though, trust me, dont wait until the last minute!!! They are not for looks, they allow use of TEL spindles with no camber, or axle length issues. Thus, the use of 5 lug, and TEL brakes.
Seam welding is a form of stitch welding. It is generally done about 1 inch of weld, 3-4 inch gap. It is done by picking a seam and doning your 1 inch weld, then picking another seam in a different location and doing a 1 inch seam, then a different location, and so on. Picking as many different seams as possible. It is also generally suggested to do so AFTER a cage is in the car. As you can see, my cage is pretty extensive and holds the car together pretty well. While TIG could concievably offer the least heat, a wire feed is probably the most common. From what I have learned, even the big WRC teams use a wire feed for the seam welding. I do it because it is what I have, and it is really easy. I assume they do it becuase of time, and ease of use. A TIG would be a pain on the seams because lots of stuff can get trapped in the seam and blow out when you start heating it causing the weld to be compromised. This process absoultely sucks and I wouldnt suggest any seam welding unless you have a track car, or a major concern about strength!
As for which seams, it just depends on how crazy you really are, or what you want. I know of several hard driven street cars that are pulling the strut towers away from the body. On this particular car, I seam welded EVERYTHING! That means the underside, door frames, trust me, everything. Some areas get a little more weld, some less. Example, the strut area is 1 on, 2 off; while the doors are 1 on, 6 or 7 off.
Later,
Chris
PS, I have a bunch of new photos since the car is done, but I havent had the time to post, plus the nitty gritty photos are cooler to look at anyway.
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