4g61t.org

The one on the radiator looks like this:


And I already replaced the other one and I have no clue where the one prong one is...

Edit: Found the other one.

To think about this more... I'm pretty sure a new ECU might be the ticket. Anyone have a working 4G37 or 4G15 ECU I can buy? I also made a thread in the classifieds.

ALRIGHTY!

I got a 4G15 ECU installed right now, and so far it has helped slightly. The car still acts up a bit, it has a severely rough idle while running, but sometimes it will smooth out. I didn't need to keep in the throttle to start it, but it did die shortly after I drove it a bit then let off the gas. Restarting was a bit difficult- I had to play with the throttle a bit before it started. Also while cold I shut it off a few times and it took a little bit of trying before the car would start back up.


While warm, I can shut the car off and turn it back on with no problems, but an very rough idle will still be present with the occasional smooth spots.


This was just a straight up swap FROM a 4G37 to a 4G15 ECU. Still running maximum distributor advance (not notched out, just as far as I could turn it) with premium, and the other 4G37 stuffs (TB, MAF, injectors).

Dude seriously I think you need to put the car in time because with that distributor advanced like that it's GOING to run like shit. Believe me when I tell you. Especially if you didn't time it correctly in the fashion using the manual's instructions. Try to get it in time and put the 37 ECU back in. The instructions are in the archives bro. Do that and post back.

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2006 Pontiac Vibe 1.8L 1ZZFE 132HP
1997 Honda Civic EX Coupe 1.8L DOHC TURBO
Conner 6/23/09 8 lbs 3 ozs 20.5 inches
Caleb 3/17/12 8 lbs 15 ozs 20 inches

You are correct on the sensor too, I was thinking about a 4G61/63 as the temp sensor for the ecu is slightly different on those. The single wire one just runs the gauge in the cluster so no need to replace it if its working.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

Alright. I'll take a bunch of timing out and put the 37 ECU back in then. But that will have to wait until I get out of work tomorrow. I was planning on trying that anyway so I just filled up with mid-grade.

Hey what do ya know? I dropped the timing and popped the 37 ECU back in and it ran great all the way from my parents house to mine, then later to Toppers to pick up pizza. Idle stayed smooth at 1k and gave no hint of dying.





...Then this morning it still hated to run. Hard to start, and I have to keep my foot in it to prevent it from stalling out, and by the time I got to work, it was fine. Its a 20 minute drive with few stops. And it acts the same when I leave work. Pretty much once it gets cold after sitting for a few hours.

That's still the exact symptom of a dead water temp sensor. I suspect the problem will gradually go away as it gets warmer out too. Are you sure you reconnected the wires correctly?

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Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd

yea, the plug only went on one way. I made sure that it was the only way that connector went on.

Needed to move my car yesterday to the other side of the road (I hate alternate-side parking) and it didn't start at all. It had been starting every time the last few weeks. Here is the thing tho, it got cold enough yesterday to snow, and I moved it at about 8pm when the temp dropped to about 30 or so. It had been steadily warming up then it just dropped in temp again and now my car didn't start... WTF!

Honestly, we've given you the absolute #1 reason why your car won't start when it gets cold. There isn't a lot more we can do man. Double check the sensor and the wiring.

Granted our csms are a little different but the basic principles apply to every mitsu car out there. Read through this url if you haven't already.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/article ... start.html

_________________
Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd

Good read, and pretty thorough too.


Still looks to me (from the literature I had just read) that it seems like a fuel issue. I guess I should start with the fuel pressure regulator. I'll check it after work tomorrow. I'll also ohm out the injectors and then listen to them. I fortunately have a spare set of injectors that I can swap out if need be.

Thanks for that. It has given me hope once again!

I had a cold start issue that made the car start like it had a carburetor.
The problem.. ECU.

Best of luck finding the little gremlin. Let me know if you need any 4g15 parts as I have mine still sitting in the garage after my swap. :/

-Shawn

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MEMBER #1495

'92 Dodge Colt 63 swap (SOLD)
'92 Galant VR-4 (it's Alive!!)
'12 Forester (DD)
GONE:
'92 Plymouth Colt 12v 4M->5M
'90 Dodge Colt GL 8v 3A
'89 Plymouth Colt 8v 5M
'92 Galant LS
'92 Galant GSR
'93 Galant LS
'93 Galant S

I have my 91 4G15 engine sitting in the back yard as well, its going to go to the junkyard for scrap shortly. If you need anything off of it, its yours for the price of shipping.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

Well, 'tis been awhile and I totally put this issue on the back burner because my wife bought a car and so she let me driver her Jeep to and from work. Well, I've had enough of it's 18mpg, so its back to the Colt. Still starts, but after it runs for a bit, the idle becomes wild and then dies. Also dies promptly after re-starting unless I have my foot in it (also need to give it alot of gas to re-start).

So I went ahead and swapped out the fuel pressure regulator... just for shits. Helped a little. Which got me thinking- Could it really be as simple as the fuel filter is clogged or something???

Okay, after sheer desperation I had it looked at by 2 garages. Neither of which I trusted too much. The second place I took it I told them to diagnose the problem after they did a brake job (kinda like a 'while you're at it' type thing) and they said that the "fuel injector harness" is bad. More specifically injector #3. I said bullshit and took my car back.

Long story short, I had a co-worker of my wife take it for a week while I was out of town (he does car repair on the side). After he poked around as much as he could without incurring any cost he found the problem. And I should have tried to find this sooner...

Compression in cylinder #4 is drastically low. From what I heard, cold compression was about 90psi and #4 was around 60psi. After he warmed the car up they were up to about 120 or 130, while #4 was below 90.

Although this is not beyond my ability to swap out the motor and keep the colt alive, I broke down and bought a newer car that is a bit more reliable. Thus the colt will be in the for sale section again. And no I won't keep it for a fun 4G63T swap project, I have no garage nor driveway to work- only the street. And if I'm gonna have a project, it will be something RWD for sure. But the CSM will always have a special place in my heart... and maybe if the time comes, I'll buy an AWD one off of LilEvo- And then I will return!