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Dead Colt. :( - updated 4/2
http://www.4g61t.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=11545		 Page 2 of 2
Author:  freecolt2 [ Tue Nov 23, 2004 1:00 am ]
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i see what you mean when its in open loop however that is what fixed mine.. donno why but it did. other than that you realy only have one other sensor being the maf, if your sure your tps sensor is good that is. whats your ignition timing set @ and whats your total advance? also what rpm is your full advance coming in @ ? i believe when you test your temp sensor it should measure somthing like 2.3 or 2.4 if its good. not sure if you have an autozone near you but they can test them for you too.
Author:  freecolt2 [ Tue Nov 23, 2004 1:02 am ]
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wait a minute.......if the ecm was from a 12 valve it might make more sense that its giving it more fuel. a 12v will breath better and need more fuel. i can get ecms for these things for 15$ and some shipping too you if you want..
Author:  kjmerkel69 [ Tue Nov 23, 2004 1:24 am ]
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Quote:
wait a minute.......if the ecm was from a 12 valve it might make more sense that its giving it more fuel. a 12v will breath better and need more fuel. i can get ecms for these things for 15$ and some shipping too you if you want..
I confirmed in CAPS that the ECM acquired from chdesign and currently installed is for a late-production 8v engine.

If you can get ECMs, try to find part # MD131263, calibration ID E2T33473.
Author:  kjmerkel69 [ Sat Nov 27, 2004 12:37 am ]
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I give up... This car is now fer sale.
Author:  kjmerkel69 [ Sat Apr 02, 2005 5:04 pm ]
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Now that the weather is warm and the car is still here, I am going to revisit this and see if I can make it run before. I think I am going to start with swapping a 4g37 MAF or hacking the one I have to trick the ECU.

To summrarize: Car died, ignition circuit in ECU failed. Installed late-production 8v ECU in an early-production 8v car, now runs but extremely rich. All sensors check out OK.
Author:  kjmerkel69 [ Sat Apr 02, 2005 8:13 pm ]
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I go out, try to start the damn thing, won't fire. No spark again. I pop open the ECU...
Image
So, who has another ECU?
Author:  Flying Eagle [ Sat Apr 02, 2005 11:11 pm ]
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Got one I received from PMA1123 with one trace that needs a rebuild <=2mm total length. It worked fine for him as a daily driver for over a year, then he pulled it to do his swap. I can send that one cheap if you would like? I think I replaced the CAPS or was halfway through, just needs to be double checked on the soldered contacts to confirm penetration on both sides and then fire it up. I have never run it in it's current state or since it was sent due to my dislike for burning ECU's, much like you are finding.

Can't believe you have so much damage occurring on your board. Even when I had the injector drivers go, there wasn't anywhere near that amount of devastation inside.
Author:  kjmerkel69 [ Mon Apr 04, 2005 8:14 pm ]
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What's sad is this is the second bad computer, including the first. How bad is that trace?
Author:  Flying Eagle [ Mon Apr 04, 2005 8:38 pm ]
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A jumper made from spare leads from a capacitor should do the trick, or as PMA1123 suggested to me, use a window defroster repair kit to make a conductive repair - they are good for 1500W of window heat (divided across 12-15 lines though). I haven't tried that myself yet on the latter possibility but it never hurts to try. If you are handy with the soldering wand, or at least have better luck with the flux allowing the solder to drain onto the part you want to solder, I think I needed a better table setup to do what I was trying to accomplish. Traces work best if you have a jewellers third hand to hold the little trace while you apply heat and then the solder. My two cents.
Send me shipping .... I'll try to dig up a post on what that runs (can't be more than $15 CAN or so) and it is yours. 8)
Author:  kjmerkel69 [ Mon Apr 04, 2005 8:49 pm ]
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I'll let you know - I'll try selling the car as-is first to avoid putting any more money into it than necessary.
Author:  markdam [ Thu Sep 09, 2010 2:19 pm ]
Post subject:  Re:
Quote:
A jumper made from spare leads from a capacitor should do the trick, or as PMA1123 suggested to me, use a window defroster repair kit to make a conductive repair - they are good for 1500W of window heat (divided across 12-15 lines though). I haven't tried that myself yet on the latter possibility but it never hurts to try. If you are handy with the soldering wand, or at least have better luck with the flux allowing the solder to drain onto the part you want to solder, I think I needed a better table setup to do what I was trying to accomplish. Traces work best if you have a jewellers third hand to hold the little trace while you apply heat and then the solder. My two cents.
Send me shipping .... I'll try to dig up a post on what that runs (can't be more than $15 CAN or so) and it is yours. 8)
Flying Eagle do you still have this ECU? i know its been a few days......... 8)
Author:  Flying Eagle [ Thu Sep 09, 2010 7:23 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Dead Colt. :( - updated 4/2
Almost all of my stuff from that era is gone, mainly stuff to keep the 4g6X series of motor running that have gone into the C53a that I now drive. Sorry.

They members that originally posted in this thread all mostly all gone from the board too, well, except me that is. 8)

You pulled up a 5 year old thread man! :ANAL:
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