4g61t.org

thanks to all the info that this board has provided on the galant brake system. I have done the swap to the vented rotors and bigger caliper setup. I even went ahead and swapped the steering knuckle. As mentioned before the tie rods will not work. But i Have found a way to modifiy the tie rod ends to mount the tie rod the right way. Dam those brake and steering feel good. all i need to do it take it and do an alignment. i will have pictures of how it looks and detailed instrutions for anyone would like to do the swap. all in all iit takes about 3 hours with basic hand tool and patiences. trust me if you do not like i learned the hard way. 1 hour plus rethreading the ball joint stud because i musromed the top end trying to beat it out.

Yes, you must inform the rest of us how you did it. I'm putting a '63t in my '92. I'm going to MELT those crappy brakes.

-paul

For anyone else out there that has mushroomed the ball joint studs trying to remove them, heres the solution.
1. (Proper way) Use a pickle fork. (looks kind of like a tuning fork)
2. Hit the knuckle where the stud inserts with a fairly sized hammer. Afew good blows and the stud will pop out.

I dismantle cars for a living and method two is the easiest and doesnt tear the rubber on the ball joint.

_________________
http://members.cardomain.com/socrateez
04' Olds Alero
91' Colt GL hatchback
4g15 12valve 5spd.
4g37 TB, MAF & Injectors. 4g37 ECU
Ported & polished & custom CAI w/K&N filter
5* Cam retard, 7*Ignition advance
2-1/4" catback w/flowmaster muffler
89 GT brake and suspension swap
Lots of little s#@t

thats cool info. I knew better than to hit the stud. but i had a 8oz hammer that was not doing $h!t for me. Frustration was kicking in at the time I had went to work 7-530 doing the same thing. I work on cars for a living at a large dealership in Va. I guess fatigue makes you do things you really mean to. but any way its beeen rain like he!! for the last 2 day so no pics yet nor can i bring my car to my work. (they have this rule about working on your cars only on sat you have off) But will be this week end, hope to have pictures soon.


Another note i wanted to mention is that anyone wanting to do the swap may want to look at getting brand new tie rods and ball joints at this time if the are not up to par. Found that out the hard way.

I bounght a die grinder bit a ace hardware for about 4.00 thats all that yo need with a steady hand. the taper goes from 1/2" to 9/16". you want to open the 1/2" side to almost to the size of the 9/16" size. but if you take to much off you will get too much play on the bottom. this is the tie end i am talking about i should mention. But a more detailed setup is coming so anyone can do it even if you know not what the tie rod is.

looking forward to your write up Schooled1.

Socrateez, I've done it that way & I've ruined every boot on the car with the fork.
In the factory service manual, they illustrate a special tool for removing Tie Rod Ends & Ball Joints. you can probibly get it from $Satan$, or miller special tool for an arm & a leg, but I got mine here
http://www.mytoolstore.com/toolaid/suspn02.html
for $13.50 & it does the job great!

I bought the same tool through JC whitney. I am very happy with it. Greg

Cool! I gotta get one. i hammer at least one set a day. Am pretty proficient at it trhough

_________________
http://members.cardomain.com/socrateez
04' Olds Alero
91' Colt GL hatchback
4g15 12valve 5spd.
4g37 TB, MAF & Injectors. 4g37 ECU
Ported & polished & custom CAI w/K&N filter
5* Cam retard, 7*Ignition advance
2-1/4" catback w/flowmaster muffler
89 GT brake and suspension swap
Lots of little s#@t

I am selling adapters to run wilwood calipers on a galant knuckle. This setup will cost you the same as running factory "big" calipers if you are buying both new and it is a bolt on setup. See the "for sale" forum for details, or email me.

Chris