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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 3:54 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 1:33 pm
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Location: Budapest, Hungary
Hey,

is there a way to rebuild your original vacuum advance unit for your 2g Colt? To fix/replace the rubber in it. Or is there any Mitsus/other Japanese cars thats unit compatible with mine? I have the one with two vacuum hoses.

tyvm,
Gab


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 5:59 am 
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Location: Phoenix, AZ
While I haven't delt with mitsu carbs, as most 2nd gens->on here were throttle-body injection;;;;; :ball: Alot of the times car manufactures reuse the same carb parts, with only jetting and bore differences. I may be blowing smoke, but i'm pretty sure that the part you need is on another mitsu somewhere. I don't see why they would only make a specialized vac advance only for your car. Old mitsu trucks were carb'd. You may have a few other cars (mabe tredia/cordia) out there that were too. Mitsu is known for having a very small parts bin(which is a good thing). To get you by and repair the tear(if you can dismantle it) you can use silicone(if its made of rubber), or gorrilla glue(if it's nitrile) to repair the tear. It is important to know the difference between nitrile and rubber.

Note** do not get gasoline, or carb choke cleaner near the diaphragm if its nitrile. This will warp it.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 6:13 am 
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Thank you very much. Sadly the car is having a very critical problem now. If I try to accelerate, in 3nd, 4th, and 5th gear, if it reaches 3000 rpm, the whole car starts to shake badly, and slows down (its like it is working with 3 cylinders). I think my mechanic fruit and banana up something. He took off all the vacuum wires to check them one-by-one, then reinstalled them. I think he changed up something. It is like a jungle now. Now the car won't go more than 60 mph. Not sure but its my only idea. Parts that also been changed recently:

- Valve oil seals
- Distributor cap
- Ignition coil
- New spark plugs (same as the old ones)

Do you have any idea where to start thinking, because now I don't know what to do. My mechanic says he cannot do anything. Spent a lot of money and fruit and banana up my car. So damn frustrating. Any help is appreciated.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 9:53 pm 
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Now Drives a hybrid :(
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Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2003 10:47 pm
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Location: Phoenix, AZ
If your not a hands on guy:
If you were close I would love to mess around with it. :oops: . Looks like you might need another "opinion". Or you can find an "old school" mechanic. In the US, some auto mechanic schools barely touch on, or don't teach carbs at all. You need yourself an old "classic car" mechanic to play around with your car. In the USA there is lots of them here on Craigslist that would tune a carb for a 20 pack of beer and 50$. You might also want to bite the bullet and take it to a Mitsubishi dealership.

Conversely, if you like to get dirty:
How is the compression? Go through the vacuum diagrams and rehookup everything correctly(over here its haynes/chilton/mitchel manuals, or the factory service manual for your car have these diagrams). After you connect everything up right, You can do more troubleshooting by looking up a toyota "22re" carb issues on Google (small japanese carbs are all similar). The 22re carb'd engine is really popular, and they might give you some good ideas about your issue.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 3:20 am 
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Location: Budapest, Hungary
Compression (with 144k kms):
Cyl. 1.: 12.5 bars
Cyl. 2.: 12.4 bars
Cyl. 3.: 12 bars
Cyl. 4.: 12.2 bars

I'm a bit confused about this. Lets see a result of an earlier compression test (with 120k kms):
Cyl. 1.: 13.1 bars
Cyl. 2.: 12.6 bars
Cyl. 3.: 12.9 bars
Cyl. 4.: 13 bars
Don't you think theres too much wearing? I assume this test is not precise (look at cyl. 2 at 120k, most worn, but look at it 144k, minimal difference).

I'm using the car for over 2 years now with incorrect vacuum hose wiring to the vacuum advance (white hose is plugged with a screw, the red one is plugged to white's place, plus timing is set to about 0 degree). This is because, if I wire it correctly, and set timing to 5 degrees BTDC (the manual says), then the engine clanks horribly. But now, I tried something. I wired them correctly, then pulled the timing down (something like 15 degrees ATDC). There weren't clanking when used to be, the car ran better. But.. at higher speed & load, the shaking came back, with engine clank noise!
So, thats why I wanted to use my original vacuum advance. I think the new one gets too much timing. But, if it is a timing issue, then why the car ran GREAT for over 2 years with incorrect wiring (no clanking at all, good mileage, good performance) ?

Forgot to mention that cylinder head gasket was replaced too, because the head was removed due to a valve guide was broken.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 11:30 pm 
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Your car has better compression than most cars on the road, so your engine is fine.



Something is up with the carbs settings, or something is broken. I would go through and set everything back to stock, then troubleshoot from there. Alot of the times something can be broken, then "as a temporary fix" someone sets carb settings to compensate for it. I would find another vac advance, clean out/inspect the carb, clean the air filter, clean the fuel filter(if its easily accessible) and then set everything back to stock. If your still having issues, work from there.


Another thing to think about is the person who did the timing belt for your "head gasket issue", could have been 1 tooth off and set the timing incorrectly for the valves.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2013 4:50 am 
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Just replaced the air filter a few days ago, because it was all jet-black (due to my cracked manifold). The car ran a bit better maybe, but haven't checked at higher speeds yet. Gonna check the distributor cap too. Finding another vac advance will be extremely hard, but what u can do... I'll try to fix my old one. Gonna check the timing belt too, thx for the tips.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2013 7:03 am 
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Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 1:33 pm
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Location: Budapest, Hungary
Quote:
Go through the vacuum diagrams and rehookup everything correctly(over here its haynes/chilton/mitchel manuals, or the factory service manual for your car have these diagrams).
Evotistical, do you have these Haynes/Chilton/Mitchel manuals? If so, could you somehow post it here or send it in email for me?


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