4g61t.org

Ok a little bit back there was some talk about useing the cam from the 4g37, well it came down to talk about using the whole head. My question is, has any one every tried, or does any one know for sure if the head will bolt up with little work. I think one thought was that it would lower compression. If so how do you fix that. I am moving in a new direction with my car and I think this may be a good place to start. So any info is good info, and if someone knows where I can get my parts for cheaper than the 150 it will cost me at the junk yard, (just for the head, and it would need to be re built) that would be cool also. Ok every one thanks.

its a direct bolt on.i have it on my car using the n/a cam and all . it works just fine,but i do belive it lowers the compression a little nothing to bad. i thinks its an upgrade because it doesn't have the jet valves and bigger valves on both sides.



just do it there's a lot of benefits compared to the bad side witch is only lower compression and non-hydrolic lifters

The 4g37 head will lower your compression to about 5 to 1 (way to low) if i remember correctly

the 4g37 does not have jet valves but if you pull you rocker assembly off you can weld them
shut, and put them back in. (i did it i have picture's to prove it)
to pull the jet valve apart just smack the retainer with a socket and hammer and slide
the "valve" out

and the 4g37 head is hydrolic lifter the g32b isnt


any questions PM me

i thought it was the other way around with the lifters

Ok, here is my thought. If I used the 37 head I would be able to use the 37 dizy, intake, and just@about all the electronics, right? Well if that is the case then I would be able to use the mega squrt kit for the 37 from dyi, that will make life realy easy. Also the advantage of loosing the jet valvs will alow me to put even bigger valvs in the head, also its a hydrolic cam, and there is an easy mod to use the coil packs from the 63 with ms. All in all if I am right there could be big power to make off our tiny engins. Any way the one other thought was if I took the head down a little wouldent it rase the commpresion back up. Any way some things to think about.

One other thing, g32, you said you are using the head already, how well does it run, did you use the 32 dizzy or the 37, and if you used the 37, what ecu did you use cuse the 37 dizzy is optical.

it runs well i need a new pressure plate because the new one is sliping.as for the dizzy its the stock g32b dizzy,and i would also like to know about the compression ratio using the 4g73 head is it really that low? is there any way to raise is up,shaving the head a little?

The chamber is different you could weld it up if you wanted but a waste of time
and Yes the comp is really that low
you would probably have to shave about .150 to get the compression close

You can use a 4g37 dizzy in a g32b head and you can use a 4g37 intake on a g32b head
so why switch heads
and the hydrolic lifter is not the best thing in a high RPM sitution
and again i ask why switch heads


As for the jet valve just weld them shut an but them back in they dont hurt anything being there closed. really you could cut the part of the rocker off that actuates the jet valve, and just leave the valve complete in the head

Pro's to switching
bigger valves
no jet valves (woo hoo weld that shit shut)

con's
next to no compression
hydrolic lifters (suck)
having to weld and reshape chambers to get the right compression
and everything off the 4g37 head fits the g32b

any one have an extra g32b head laying around lol. i had no idea it lowered the compression that much .has any one experimented with puting in the 4g37 bock with the g32b head or just the whole g37 and turboing it

I do have an extra g32b head. In fact, I have a COMPLETE g32b engine for $250 if you pick it up. I will sell you just the head for $250 plus shipping!

Thanks!

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Ok then junk yard you win. So help me out. I still have no power, its not the timing ether. I think it may be the tps, I moved it a little and it idled so good. Then when I step on the gas the tb opens up, I think the thing just leans out and it trys to die. It could be the ecu, or any other combo of electirical problems. Or it may even be the tb and injector mixer. Realy to many problems to through money at it. I know that mechanicly the engen is sound, so I want to change over to mpi, I want a new ecu and sinsers. Junk yard, pm me what you got if its going to work I will start getting parts together next week. I just don't want to waste any more money.

so i have just gotten my motor back togetherish
im not to the point of mpi yet


do you have the service book for our car?

if you do find out your TPS idle resistance
then check it through the the throttle band from idle slowly to WOT
(note car must be KOEO (key on engine off)when doing this test)
best to use a analog style meter

look for a flat spot where either the meter stops moving or drops off


then check fuel pressure at the back of the rail
i know you have checked and what not just please recheck it


then check your timing cam and ignition
i know your have checked and swear its right but double and triple check it

and if all else fails call me

240 848 6662
and we can go through it together

TPS test and adjustment and yes it is for a starion/conquest but the parts are the same, however the wire colors are not, you'll get the idea! -> http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=907

Also check your injector clips, they are 20 years old and most likely corroded.

Yes the injector clips were very corroded, in fact the first time I tryed to start it and it wouldn't start, that was the problem. I was just spent then I went to check the impedence of the injectors and it wouldn't read. So I used a small file and fixed that problem. At that time it ran so good. It went through a ton of oil but it ran, Right. So I will put the tb back together and do the test.