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Hey all:
Was driving home yesterday, fairly warm out, and the 89 colt turbo (4g32b) was hesitating and not accelerating like it should, and has historically. I thought maybe I had bad gas (no jokes), but then I went to start out from a red light, and I could not get above 10 k/ph. I pulled off into a parking lot, where it died, and could not get it started. I thought maybe out of gas, but the guage still read just under 1/4 tank. Added some gas to no avail.
I am thinking fuel pump, but I really have not done much to this car as it was getting me through the winter. Is there any common problem that causes these to die altogether (coil, dizzy, cap n' rotor, fuel filter, injectors, etc...) or should I start with the fuel pump?

Note: when I turn the key to "ON", I don't hear the fuel pump "whirr" which I am used to from imports. Do these cars typically have this sound? Is there a relay or fuse that just might be dead, or am I looking at dropping the tank?

Please help!!!

Sounds like you have a large boost leak. Check all the piping connections between the turbo and the throttle body and make sure nothing is disconnected and that there aren't any rips, tears, or holes in any of the rubber connectors. Also, make sure your MAF sensor is plugged in and working properly.

Does this car have an electric or mechanical fuel pump? I am not sure as I don't have a Haynes yet, but people keep asking me. It seems it must be an electrical pump in the tank right?

I would imagine it's electrical. I don't think it's your fuel pump. If the fuel pump was bad, the car probably wouldn't run or drive at all. Try what I suggested before you spend lots of money replacing a part that isn't broken.

Actually it does not drive at all. I cannot imagine it would be a boost leak, because it should still fire up, as there is no boost at idle. In fact, while cranking, it shows a small amount of boost on the guage...

I checked it over for all the basic stuff (cracked pipes, loose wires, etc)...

Does the engine start at all? Because if it does, the fuel pump is probably doing its job. A boost leak will make the car run terrible if it's large enough, and that has nothing to do with actually seeing boost on your gauge. The car goes into a limp mode where it runs extremely rich because air that has already been metered by the MAF sensor is leaking out somewhere, which is what causes the car to run like shit and be basically undriveable.

on g32b's the fuel pump does not run when you turn the key to on like most imports.
it only runs A. when cranking cause the starter relay is engaged. B. when the ecu sense's ignition. pull the plug out of the back of the fuel rail and crank it if fuel poors out your problem is else where. if it doesnt then its most likely your fuel pump

I read in a post somewhere there is a jumper you can run to test the fuel pump - although pulling the plug is just about as easy: and it really does not start or run at all.

don't forget to read the codes - this should be your starting point. I've replace 2 engine coolant temp sensors , a ISC, and one MAF on my 88 g32b.

A bad coolant sensor will cause the car to idle bad. When my MAF went I could smell gas like it was running super rich.

Well, I finally got a chance to pour over the car last night and the winner is!!!

Timing belt!!! It is looser than a hotdog in a hallway.

Any tips on changing a timing belt in a 4G32BT??? I already have the top cover and engine mount off, and driver wheel off. It looks like a standard FWD where you have to jack the engine up and down repeatedly.

Should I get a new tensioner while I am at it? There is some oil residue on the belt, so I am assuming cam seal?

take the timing belt mount off pull the balancer bolts out
and remove the covers

line the pin on the crank to the pin on the housing
line the cam pulley arrow up to the line on the sheet metal backer
click the tensioner spring into place tighten lock nut and start it

at least thats how i do it its easy no jacking might take an hour or 2

Beauty, thanks eh?

Well, for any future people wondering about the timing belt tips: put the hardware on the tensioner loose first, then put the spring on the tensioner, then tighten it up. Very difficult to swing into place with the spring tension on it. And the mark on the back cover for the cam is VERY small, so wipe all the grease/oil/dirt off to find it. The pin to line the crank up with is the one to the front of the engine (car) at about the 10 o'clock position. (I just yanked the #1 plug and looked at the piston to make sure)

Started up no problem, and probably fixed a bit of a boost leak in the process. Thanks for the help all.

Hey, what is the suggested timing for this car? About 8-10 BTDC?

yea about there
i was gona tell you all the little things but whats the fun in know everything before you get in there

So I took it for a drive to commute to work this morning, and once it was warmed up, the RPM's started bouncing between 1100 and 1700 rpm. I am wondering if because I changed the throttle body with the injectors and the TPS, if the TPS needs to be adjusted, or if I just set the throttle linkage too tight (so it is always open a little).

Anyone have this problem before?