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| Engine rebuild possibly gone wrong!! http://www.4g61t.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=27575 |
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| Author: | mark_eire [ Sat Jan 10, 2009 6:26 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Engine rebuild possibly gone wrong!! |
Sorry, this is a long one! I got my '86 colt turbo last year and it was blowing out blue smoke when idling and while driving. I was told it would be either the valve stem seals or the piston rings. I decided to get the engine rebuilt and get new big end bearing's, piston rings and valve stem seals! I got the head refurbished and got a complete gasket kit for the engine/exhaust system. I replaced all the part's and rebuilt the engine along with a friend who has done this many times before. When we had it all back together and lined up the timing, the engine seemed very tight, it was very difficult to turn over the engine to line it all up. We filled it with oil, checked all the pipe's, wire's and connections were in place. Turned the key......... Nothing! We found an earth wire on the starter was off and reconnected it thinking it was causing the problem but no, still the same! I connected a brand new battery incase mine was dead and it was still the same, when I turn the key all the dash lights go dim as if there is no power in the battery but it is fully charged and works fine in my Volvo 850R! I think that the piston rings are the wrong ones and it is possibly after damaging the insides of the cylinder's now aswell! Anybody been here before, any advice?????? HELP PLEASE!! |
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| Author: | junk yard 86 colt [ Sat Jan 10, 2009 9:02 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Engine rebuild possibly gone wrong!! |
the rod bearing could be to tight but the rings could be to tight in the walls also how did the pistons go in the bore easy, lots of beating? did you have to file the rings to the cylinder cause when i bought mine they were oversized and as in most new ring sets and must be filed |
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| Author: | mark_eire [ Sun Jan 11, 2009 7:33 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Engine rebuild possibly gone wrong!! |
Quote: the rod bearing could be to tight
The rings went on easy and went into the cylinder with no problems or beating!! I had one of the sleeves that you put over the piston and it tightens the rings and then you just slide it into the cylinder! It didn't feel tight to get them in at all......but the rings could be to tight in the walls also how did the pistons go in the bore easy, lots of beating? did you have to file the rings to the cylinder cause when i bought mine they were oversized and as in most new ring sets and must be filed I'm hoping it could be a wire disconnected somewhere from the starter that won't allow it to power up. It was getting late the last day I was working on the car and it was dark and freezing so I left it! I'm dreading going back to work on it cos I don't wanna have to strip it all down again! |
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| Author: | colt200 [ Sun Jan 11, 2009 11:32 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Engine rebuild possibly gone wrong!! |
If you pull the spark plugs out, you should be able to turn the engine over with a ratchet on the crankshaft with one hand. I put an engine together once in a rush and didnt have the bearing surfaces checked to make sure they are all straight, I was not able to turn it at all with two hands so that was my problem. Did you guys check the bearing clearances too? Perhaps the bearings on the crankshaft are a bit big? 
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| Author: | Flying Eagle [ Sun Jan 11, 2009 11:40 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Engine rebuild possibly gone wrong!! |
If the starter solenoid clicks and the starter is not moving then you have bad starter, solenoid that doesn't engage far enough or a large ground issue. If the starter does actually engage once the solenoid moves in place, does the starter actually start to spin or sound like it is loading up, and lights dim massively and you can hear weird groaning sounds? We need to know if the starter is even clicking on, or if it gets any engagement at all. If you can't crank over the motor with a ratchet and the plugs out, then there are greater issues holding you back, easiest of which would be to remove the starter motor and start to diagnose it, confirm the motor moves easier with it out, or not, and then go from there. |
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| Author: | Miragetbo1997cc [ Sun Jan 11, 2009 1:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Engine rebuild possibly gone wrong!! |
I think the rod bearings are too tight.When you drop the crank into the block and tighten up the main caps.The first thing you do is spin it.Then install rods and pistons set then tighten those up and spin.Just drop the oil pan and lossen them up a little to set if it spins. |
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| Author: | mark_eire [ Sun Jan 11, 2009 3:44 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Engine rebuild possibly gone wrong!! |
Thanks for all the help! The starter seem's to be fine. Before I stripped the engine it would start almost immediately. Now when I turn the key the dash lights almost go out. There is a clonk noise coming from the starter like it's trying to turn but it's not clicking or anything like it! I have been thinking that the ring's are wrong! I bought the rings from ebay (they were identical to the one's I replaced) but I got the bearings from a mitsubishi dealer using the chassis number so I presume they are right!!! Looks like I'll be getting my hands dirty again next weekend!! damn..... We can't crank over the engine with a ratchet as the square hole on the side of the engine is rung and it won't turn the engine!!! We were turning the engine by leaving the car in gear and pushing it around the yard!!! lol This has been a disaster since day 1!! |
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| Author: | j2dapo [ Mon Jan 12, 2009 6:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Engine rebuild possibly gone wrong!! |
When I did my g32b I made sure the crank turned as I pieced it back together. I also had the manual and followed it's instructions, and I used assembly lube on all the machined surfaces/bearings/cam/lifters/valves. Once it was all together I was still able to rotate it all without any spark plugs. Don't give up! Best of luck. |
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| Author: | Colt45103 [ Thu Jan 22, 2009 9:05 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Engine rebuild possibly gone wrong!! |
I also agree that the bearings are too tight. If you didn't previously you should get some plastic gauge to check them. Plastic gauge is a small length of plastic (looks like a skinny piece of plastic string)that you place between the crank and the bearings. Tighten the end caps to torque then take it apart and take a look at the plastic gauge. It will have flattened out and you can compare it to the actual gauge markings on the paper in which it comes wrapped. You need to ask for it at your local auto parts store in the clearance size listed in the repair manual. Also when you take the engine apart remove the timing belt and make sure that the cam shaft will spin - I had a problem with a G32B engine once where the top end locked up... Finally when you finish the rebuild fill the oil pan and hook a drill up to the oil pump (before you put on the sprocket) and spin it up to speed - this will make sure that all of the interior parts have been lubricated before you attempt to start it. I know that it's frustating but remember the words of Billy Joel "things we did not know at first we learn by doing twice...." |
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