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Specializing in the 3g CSM
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PostPosted: Sat May 20, 2017 8:44 am 
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Right behind the front fenders is a seam near the base of the A=pillar that loves to allow water in. Either the wiring harness on the passenger side fender is cracked and allowing water in that way, or one or both of the seams are not sealing properly. Get enough rain at the right angles or just a little and it gets in regardless, so check out the water leak thread here on the site. There are some detailed pictures of where to look. Yes, the windshield can leak too, but unless you see just bloat, it would be surprising that it happens now but not impossible. Using a hose on the windscreen edges and around the base of the windshield while you sit upside down in the car with a flashlight, usually yields a direction to head in.
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It is actually a VERY simple fix... I used to have this problem in my AWD colt, and the GF's White trash.The Cowl draig tubes get plugged/blocked over the years. and the water has nowhere to go.There is a sealer of somesort that holds two panels together. and it manages to make its way through that sealer after a while. I located the spot after a few min of searching for it.. I took the stock ECU out. the brackets that hold the ecu in the stock location. The passenger side speaker thats in the lower dash. if you loook straight back to the right, Its under the matting. I cut that stuff out. Cleaned the mossy look green stuff off the two pieces with alky. Then took some black RTV and went over the two panels a few times. maybe 3-4 and applied it kinda thick. Let it set up, and re-install the things you removed.. No more leaky, and no more wet floor. I fixxed mine over a year ago and it sits out side 99% of the time. If you guys want pictures. Give me a week. and it'll be in my garage by then. and i can do a step by step how to.
http://www.4g61t.org/forum/viewtopic.ph ... 52&start=0

http://www.4g61t.org/forum/viewtopic.ph ... m&start=15


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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 11:37 am 
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I came across a bottle of radiator flush sitting around today. Nice! Did I mention this car has good working A/C? It's literally the only option besides a radio. No tach, no cruise, no pass mirror, no power steering. Perfect, basically. I'm not gonna retain the a/c after an engine swap unless it's painless to do so. The steering has great feel and the effort is really only annoying below 10 mph. I imagine with huge tuner rims that's magnified considerably. When I get a new steering wheel I'll keep the diameter similar.

I guess I'm gonna buy that stupid $180 sensor for an engine that's probably on it's way out. sigh. I'll call the local yards for grins but otherwise it's autozone to the rescue.

That build thread is epic mr eagle. Just so you know the pictures don't work for the first 3 or so pages. After that it's a wild ride. The shifter info is spot on for my application. The rearward tilt would be ideal, since I'm thinking I want to make an extension and it needs to clear the center stack. I'm yanking the carpets and center console and rear seat soon anyway. It's pretty gross in there, I don't drive with the windows up so far. Some skateboard kiddies owned it at some point; it had speaker wire running all over and even has this classic sticker on the rear bumper

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well except it literally is almost everywhere you'd want to actually skate...


Seems like it's easier to find info about the 4g63 swap than a 4g61t. Maybe it's so easy it doesn't need explaining lol. I'm still looking at that option and will keep lurking on ebay. I also checked out co-part and found a fair few 1g DSM's. This one especially looks like a good potential donor:
https://www.copart.com/lot/29442137/
I mean wow, 255k miles holy crap! And a car with obvious body damage is way preferable to me over the ones that look complete. Anybody in Denver want to help a brother out? :)
Not to namedrop but I've been internet buddies with Murilee Martin since 2007 and he's located there now. I'm sure he's sympathetic to the cause. Read his famous Audi R8 / '92 Civic Hatch comparison review if you haven't:
http://jalopnik.com/324635/audi-r8-part-1
I even set up an Autotrader search with alerts for all three versions of the 90-94 DSM. I mean, it'd be a shame to hack up a running and driving car, but something tells me I could sleep at night if it looked like this: http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale ... =457698858
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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 11:58 am 
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sorry I havent read the whole thread but if you are looking to swap in a 4g63 turbo.. this one is n/a.. so no turbo.. https://www.copart.com/lot/29442137/..


if your not swapping to a turbo then disregard this post lol.. guess I should start at the top hehehe..


Steve

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On drag radials.auto trans.launching @ 5 psi and no traction thru 2nd.


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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 3:53 pm 
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Call me Tim.

The 4g6x is an everything the same type of swap. 4g61, 4g67, 4g63 early ninties motors are all the same fitment for the most part. When comparing 4g61 and 4g63 (90-94) blocks share under ican fitment. The only difference will be if you already had an exhaust on a 4g61t setup and then switch to 4g63t (both with the same stock turbo setups) and realize the slight change in extra deck height will suck the downpipe up a little possibly causing clearance issues which are easily remedied.

If you find a 4g61t with good rings and it is considerably cheaper than a 4g63, consider it but pistons are the main issue with rebuilding a 4g61t. You can go custom and some have but the cost of pistons could net you a good running 4g63 setup with or without the extremities all attached. Crate motors are the best way to go.


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PostPosted: Tue May 23, 2017 12:38 am 
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Huge gains today! The yard 1/2 a mile away had a Colt this whole time! I should have called weeks ago..

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They only wanted $35 for the two sensors. The car is pretty complete with all glass and body. It's sandwiched tight, I had to kick the window crank through the door gap to get it open enough to crawl through the window and open the hood. They also had several 1G DSM's. Only one 93 eclipse wasn't picked over engine wise and it's a 4G37 of course. Don't think there's anything I could use off of it really but it's complete and in great shape.

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After putting the sensors on and reconnecting the battery the car idles slightly better now but still throws a code and drives identically. Guess it's time to finally put that 02 sensor in lol. It's happening tomorrow.

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It's not clean, but at least it's empty
I weighed it before pulling anything, it was 2170 lbs without me. Not bad! Also, I need to go on a diet.

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The bolts for the shifter had rattled loose. Perhaps I overtightened them and collapsed the rubber. I live my life a 1/4 mile at a time.

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It has a Volvo radio lol. I can't wait to rip this crap out.

I gotta get a temp seat for now, gonna see if there's a Probe or MX-6 around tomorrow.

Well, I guess it's official. It was time to register and insure the colt and I even went for perm plates.
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Does anybody want this crap? I may reinstall new carpet and reuse the center console but other than that it's trash to me.

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PostPosted: Tue May 23, 2017 11:56 am 
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If you throw out the carpet, a new one will not have the side sill strip to clip the material in place, and then put the sill plate back on top.

My new ACC carpet came that way, as most do. No foot pads, no side strips etc. Cross them over or leave them out was the option.


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PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2017 8:25 am 
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Get some carpet shampoo and pressure wash that bad boy. Might turn out great

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Black 1989 Colt GT with 4g61t. 200k miles and climbing. Rebuilt 2.0 in the works.....
14b, 450cc's, 3" exhaust, small fmic, all running on megasquirt version: DIYPNP
White 1992 colt-vista wagon 2.4, awd, auto (daily)
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PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2017 11:49 am 
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Oh I agree, I've seen worse carpet. It's just not for me. I'm planning to dry ice the sound deadening out later this summer, per https://youtu.be/4FqkxgcjRQQ For now just floormats is plenty. I took the carpet out of my Wrangler when I bought it and didn't put it back in until it was time to sell it. I'd like the car to do autocross someday, and my commute is basically a touge course. I've got access to a welder, plasma...

I saved the foam thingy for the passenger side. Thanks for the tip on the side sill strips! I'll save those for sure. Trash day is tomorrow, you saved my bacon. I found new carpets for $240 if I ever want to go back.

Some major fails yesterday. I took the distributor off to get access to the O2 sensor clip. Glad I started there before pulling the sensor out of the manifold. For some reason my car has the AT style square plug even though my car is MT. I got the new one ordered from Autozone, but now I had my car 25 miles from town and I just screwed the timing up.
I was able to get it roughly close, but not good enough. I'm gonna go guesstimate some more with it, I don't really want to buy a timing light and teach myself how to use one right now. I just filled it up with premium because ethanol is probably hard on the old girl anyway and it could help with knock. I am at over a mile elevation.


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PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2017 1:57 pm 
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All right that worked perfect. I think I had it too far advanced. This time I moved it counterclockwise from all the way clockwise until it started dying and then backed it off a little bit. It runs a little better than it did to begin with now. I'll finally get to do the oxygen sensor tomorrow maybe we'll be somewhere. Perhaps one of those sensors from the junkyard is no good but it was worth the 35 bucks to try. I probably do need to get a timing light as well.


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PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2017 10:50 am 
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Ok, Oxygen sensor in! The manifold has a pretty bad crack.

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I JB Welded it, then lit it on fire heating up the manifold. The 02 sensor came out easily, though the threads were full of crud as Tim prophesied and chasing them made the new one go in much smoother. No idea what the torque came out to be; the only tool that would work as is was a 7/8" flare wrench. The 22mm combo was too bulky. Thank god for accidental intercompatibility. I put the heat shield back on mostly to route the 02 sensor wire, so I can't watch how my repair is holding up or if any exhaust is making it out. I think I'd throw a different code if the manifold was leaking badly though.

I'm resetting the ECU by having the battery disconnected during the procedure and even turning the lights on or tapping the brake. I assume this is enough to make it forget codes. The car runs maybe 5% better now. Still bucks and bogs at anywhere near half throttle. Checking codes this morning, the throttle position sensor is still reporting, and a new one, 24: Vehicle Speed Sensor. Looks like the junkyard coolant sensor was good.


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PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2017 11:28 am 
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Be careful with how long that 0s sensor is in the exhaust before the crack is fully fixed. New manifolds were once plentiful on EBay, probably Dorman or other cheap off shore stuff. WITH a good crack, the extra oxygen pulled into the gap between pulses makes for an afterburner effect along the way to the catalytic converter. Long term issue but if you will be putting miles on the car it would be advise able to change the manifold soon. Car will run better and you won't smell bad fumes all the time.
I would have mentioned this earlier but didn't know there was a long crack in the usual spot.


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PostPosted: Sat May 27, 2017 9:56 am 
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Alright, afterburner effect! Combined with the turbo kit I ordered, my days of waving people past are numbered!
https://www.amazon.com/iSaddle-Exhaust- ... B008V5UAJC
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Long term drivability hopefully isn't the goal here, if I can get my Buick on the road again. I was finally putting things back together last night when I broke a bolt off under the timing cover. I refuse to pull the cover (and oil pan) again and am bringing a drill to try to extract it. I have left-handed bits and three different kinds of extractors. But that's a tale for another forum. I've only got through Monday to get-er-done and the Colt is my only transportation until I finish.

After that the Colt doesn't need to be continuously drivable. It's on my insurance, but that only added a hilarious $30 over 6 months, and permanent plates was just $120. Unlike most US states, we still don't have any emissions or safety inspections in Montana. You know, recently at a stop light I was right behind a white Evo X Final Edition with sticky tires and rally armor flaps (WANT), and as much as I'm jealous, I think I could actually afford to run the 4G15 on nitrous constantly for less than the insurance and registration costs for an Evo. I priced out a GT86 recently, and while the payments are manageable the insurance was hundreds a month. I'm 31 and have nothing on my record. Perfect credit, no debt. No thanks! Old shitboxes for me!

I'm discovering that the Colt is a truly superior crap-can. I've spent time in all the generations of Metro/Cultus, Festiva, Civic hatch, you name it. The inputs on the Colt are way better right out of the box. Brake feel is shockingly good, I can't wait till I change the nasty fluid. The turning circle is frankly amazing. I already praised the steering and shifter. There's no rattles, even with no carpet it's not half as loud as my Jeep inside. We'll see what it's like without the headliner. I'm starting to love this thing, and I really enjoy working on it.

Did anybody ever try ghetto-charging the 4G15 as is? Not considering it, just wondering aloud.

I'm gonna pick up some split loom in different diameters to protect the wiring now that the carpet is out. I've found TPS from shadier sources for more like $50 shipped. I'm gonna hope it really is the sensor and not wiring or something. I don't see anything about the vehicle speed sensor in the FSM. Googling only shows AT trans results. Does it do anything important? Why TF does my car have an AT style 02 sensor anyways?
I never mentioned that the car needs CV axles badly. It looks like no matter what engine or trans I go with I'll still be using the stock length and spline axles. Is this correct? I'll probably just go the OEM route locally on that as I never expect any more than 150HP in my life. I'm also hunting for strut options. The k-sports are absolutely ineligible for my use as I need maximum ride height and compliance. Even the paved roads here are rough hewn, I have three cattle guards I hit twice every single day at full speed. I may just end up with OEM struts I suppose. Even then, Autozone only shows fronts for some reason.


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PostPosted: Sat May 27, 2017 1:46 pm 
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You can get height with K Sports but you won't have the soft appeal of factory style valving that OEM style struts will afford. Get a lifetime warranty set of GR2/Excel G's and call it a day, in my view.

Looks like you are having fun with this car already.


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PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2017 9:12 am 
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Excellent, a warranty! Thanks for the recommendation, they sound perfect for my needs. After my next paycheck I can start shopping for go fast parts. Sounds like I don't need to wait to replace the axles or CV joints, struts or even wheels. I've done some digging on what rims will fit and am going to go with a customish set from Diamond Racing that should fit perfectly.
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That way I can look good while I wait for the engine fairy to visit. I know these have become somewhat played out in the tuner/rice subculture, but the fact is they're strong, they fit and they're cheaper than used alloys on ebay. It looks like the ideal fitment on these cars is 195/50R15 on 15x7 with a 38 offset. Costco has a killer deal right now on the sticky icky BFG G-FORCE SPORT COMP-2 for under $300 if I'm willing to try for a 195/55. I ran this exact size for years on one of my Protege's.

Got my landlord's swanky Joyner 4 seater side by side running last night. It had been sitting for years and the fuel system was full of crud. New pump and filter and it runs like a top. It got me to thinking, if this little Chery 3 cylinder 800 can motivate a heavy UTV, surely their new 1100 4cyl could move a Colt! Engineering an adapter plate would cost a mint, but it'd definitely fit in the engine bay side to side. They use an old VW transaxle with a regular 5 speed transmission.
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Just dreaming though, not at all serious.

Ran into that 1G DSM I keep seeing around at the post office! It sounds mean as hell, and the owner is a lady! I would have talked to her (yeah right) but she was on her phone. Perhaps it is meant to be! I can woo her, borrow her car, wreck it and then offer to buy it back from the insurer. Dynamite!
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PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2017 7:22 pm 
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The 15" rims are where it's at, you can run the bigger, and better, 2 piston brakes.
If you are lucky enough to find an early "92-"95 Hyundai Elantra the front sway bars are worth snatching up, along with the motor mounts and lower control arms they help aid in a 4G63 swap.

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