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PostPosted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 11:25 pm 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
already got the wheel bearing kit :D

right, got me one of those balljoint separator things, time for another attempt!


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 11:52 pm 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood
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i have a new favourite tool!

that ball joint remover is absolute gold! took less than 5 mins to get both hubs off!

nearly stained my pants when the first hub when BANG! though! :lol:


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 2:42 pm 
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Some call me a god

Joined: Wed Oct 04, 2006 3:03 pm
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Location: Calgary, AB, Canada
Quote:
Quote:
i'll give one of these are try tomorrow

http://www.kincrome.com.au/web/catalogu ... umber=2210

if that doesnt work im just gunna f*&^ shit up with a sledge hammer and pickle fork!
Those work great I use those on my ball joints and tie rod ends all the time.

The first time you use one when the ball joint/tie rod makes a huge noise you'll think something broke and it killed you.... But its supposed to do that surprisingly...
Those work really well, but I broke a cheap $25 one on a tie rod, it worked fine on the ball joint but the arm broke in half on a tie rod :rolleyes: I just took it back to Princess Auto for another, (the Galant knuckle still has it on).

I usually loosen the ball joint nut some and leave it on as it gives a little more area to work with and helps to not disfigure the stud/threads.

Sometimes its hard to get enough room to get it on a ball joint, but if you take off the axel nut and push the axle back you can get it on.

_________________
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99 Benz ML 320
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 2:12 am 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood
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machined stub axles FTW! :)

Image
Image
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Image

so thats the conversion to floating 276mm disc's done for the front and i have some spacers made up for the twin pots :D

yay!

hopefully i will be able to stop now :D


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 10:46 am 
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Post all relevant data you can t04, cause this post will head to Tech Gold, errr I mean the Archives. :lol:


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 11:06 am 
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CSM Junkie

Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2007 8:05 pm
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Location: Kingston , Ontario, Canada
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Post all relevant data you can t04, cause this post will head to Tech Gold, errr I mean the Archives. :lol:
Yeah for sure, get more info up, we wanna copy you,lol :D . I've gotta do something with my brakes, so VERY interested in what you are doing/using 8)


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 07, 2008 1:33 am 
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right, all done!

Image

basically i just followed the info from

http://forum.4g61t.org/viewtopic.php?t= ... 5&start=30

but instead of using the elantra disc's i got my stub axles machined to fit inside 276mm Galant VR4 rotors, i assume those are eclipse rotors.

then just fitted the twin pots with 6mm spacers, because the rotor's are 6mm thick (kinds like running wheel spacers).

seems good so far, but i wont be able to road test them for a few more months.

but from what other people have said about this conversion it works very well, and there is no need to pull apart the hub to change a rotor now :D


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 07, 2008 7:27 am 
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This is just like watching one of those commercials of a cool invention and then thinking to yourself "Man why didn't I think of that?". :P

Props for being different, glad the writeup helped a little too. :wink:

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 07, 2008 9:37 am 
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yup! wouldnt have been able to do it without your write up 89Mirageman,

one thing though, once you put new bearings and seals in, were the hubs tight to turn?

im thinking they may loosen up after a bit of drive.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 8:02 am 
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I honestly don't remember on my Colt. I recently replaced the wheel bearings and seals on my 4g Mirage and they were tight when I was done. I actually flipped it back over and pressed the hub back out a bit and they spun free again. Probably would have done the same if I had just put them on the car and drove it so I think you'll be OK.

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94 Eagle Summit DL coupe
98 Mitsubishi Mirage DE sedan
98 Mitsubishi Mirage DE sedan (project green turd)
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 12:56 pm 
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Location: Cincinnati, ohio
so what exactly do you do? I bought vr4 hubs. but i dont wanna switch if i dont have too..

So i just replace the wheel bearings, And instead of bolting up the rotor again, I just put it on the outside and space the caliper?

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 2:57 pm 
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Location: Port Royal, Va
So you machined the outside of the CSM hub to fit inside the new rotor, interesting. Moves the rotor to the other side of the hub, so is the rotor offset the same?

I just machine DSM hubs to fit colt wheel bearings and then you have your pick of the litter in terms of what brake/wheel setup you want to run.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 3:05 pm 
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It looks to me like you could just cut and grind the hubs down while they're still on the car until you have enough clearance to fit the GVR4 rotors. This way you won't have to bother with the bearings.

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94 Eagle Summit DL coupe
98 Mitsubishi Mirage DE sedan
98 Mitsubishi Mirage DE sedan (project green turd)
15 Mitsubishi Mirage ES hatch


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 3:20 pm 
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This is a great idea! Do you remember how far you had to space out the calipers? I am going to assume the brackets bolt up and you spaced it between the calipers and brackets?

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89 Colt GT(2)
88 d50 4g63t, crower 272's, dsmlink


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 4:14 pm 
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Location: Stantonsburg, NC
Quote:
This is a great idea! Do you remember how far you had to space out the calipers? I am going to assume the brackets bolt up and you spaced it between the calipers and brackets?
Quote:
just fitted the twin pots with 6mm spacers, because the rotor's are 6mm thick (kinds like running wheel spacers).
I know for a fact the calipers bolt up because I tried dsm calipers on my Colt when I had it.

_________________
94 Eagle Summit DL coupe
98 Mitsubishi Mirage DE sedan
98 Mitsubishi Mirage DE sedan (project green turd)
15 Mitsubishi Mirage ES hatch


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