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PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2007 8:41 pm 
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Location: Mishawaka, IN
Since I can't update the archive, I figured I would start a new thread with info and hopefully some pictures tomorrow. The 1G caliper, 1G pads, and Elantra combo works great. Everything fits together wonderfully. There is a much easier method to do the work though than the archive shows.

You don't need to go so far as to having a shop press and remove the hub in total. The only special tools you need to complete the job is a 32mm socket for the axle nut and a slide hammer. I will post a picture tomorrow of a slide hammer for those that don't know what that is.

As far as reassembly of the rotor to the hub, you can use the axle to pull everything back together. It worked great for me!


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2007 9:08 pm 
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Yes, you can use the bolt/axle cup to pull it all together but you really have to be careful, and it is not as foolproof as using a slow handle-movement type shop press. We can add this to the archive for the sake of different of methods of doing this as I know a master tech helped me and offered the very same equipment to put it all back together with, but I'd already finished at the press! 8)


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 7:18 am 
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Yeah, I had planned to do it the same way you did it, and I ended up at a shop talking to a master tech I know and he showed me that method. Worked real nice. I wouldn't have thought of it on my own!


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 5:34 pm 
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Just to follow up a bit on this...

Tools you need:
-Slide Hammer with mounting flange (you can rent one at Autozone)
-32 mm socket
-Dead blow hammer
-misc metric sockets

1) As with any rotor replacement, you need to remove the caliper bracket assembly. I'm making the assumption people on this forum already know how to do this.
2) Remove the cotter pin on the 32 mm axle nut and remove the axle nut.
3) Attach the slide hammer flange to the outer hub/rotor assembly (bolt the flange on the wheel studs). Hold the base of the slide with one hand and slam the slide hammer away from the car. After a few good whacks, the rotor/hub assembly will fall out. There is the wheel bearing exposed on the outer hub, so be careful!
4) There are 4 bolt/nut assemblies holding the rotor to the hub. Since you are replacing the rotor, I find it best to clamp the rotor in a bench vise as this point. Remove the 4 bolt/nut assemblies and lightly tap the hub from the rotor.
5) Reverse #4 to install new rotor.
6) Repack wheel bearing.
7) Loosely install hub/rotor assembly back onto the inner-hub.
8) Pull the axel through and loosely install the axle nut. Lightly twist the axle nut with the 32 mm socket (do not apply to much torque).
9) with the socket still on the nut, drive the hub/rotor assembly into the inner hub with a dead blow hammer. Strike the socket with the dead blow a few times, then turn the nut on the distance you have moved the rotor. Progressively increase the strike strength until you are going ape $h!t on it and the rotor/hub will not move inward anymore.
10) Lightly torque the axle nut.
11) install wheel without the hub cap on
12) Torque the axle nut to spec.
13) Take wheel off and install brake caliper and pads.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 1:04 am 
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needs to be stickied.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 11:08 pm 
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Post moved to the archives because it deserves that much attention. Great update on top of that.


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