OK I finally got around to doing the other side last night and I was able to snap some pics for you guys. I decided to just add them here instead of starting a new thread since there is already a ton of useful information here. For those that haven't been following along this modification allows you to use a larger, vented brake rotor from the 92-95 Hyundai Elantra along with the much larger FWD DSM front brake calipers. This is a serious upgrade over the tiny stock 1.5L brakes. Time to get greasy!
First thing is to jack the car up and get the front wheel off. Now the complete spindle assembly has to come off of the front suspension arm, From memory here are the things that have to come off. Large axle nut and cotter pin, two 17mm bolts/nuts holding the lower strut to the spindle, lower ball joint nut, tie-rod end nut/cotter pin, caliper and caliper bracket. Once all of these are off you will have to hammer the tie-rod end and lower ball joint off because they are pressed on. I used a pickle fork and a heavy hammer. This destroys the rubber dust boots and these parts will have to be replaced. You may be able to be more careful and save them but honestly they probably need to be replaced anyway as these cars are getting old. Here is what the assembly looks like off of the car.
Once it's off you need to take the 4 bolts/nuts off that hold the rotor to the hub. I used a long extension, 14mm socket, 14mm wrench and my impact gun. Just keep spinning the spindle until you can get to the bolt head. I actually trimmed some of the tin dust shield off to allow more room for this. Tin snips work well for that.
The next step is to press the hub assembly off of the rotor/spindle. I used 2 thick wood blocks and a 22mm socket to do this.
The thick wood blocks are used to keep the front of the hub from hitting the press. If done correctly the socket will push everything apart and this is what you will be left with, the spindle, rotor and the front of the hub with it's bearing still pressed on it.
Now it's time to press out the old bearings. Again these could possibly be reused but I would not recommend it. If you do take this chance at least replace the seals at the very least. To get the bearing out of the spindle I took a large 1/2 extension and went around it evenly hitting it with a hammer. Eventually it'll just come out the bottom. Also do this on something sturdy, I just put it on the concrete floor.
Now it's time to get the other bearing off of the hub. They make special pullers for this but I don't have one yet. It is called a bearing seperator. It mounts behind the bearing and then you can press it out using the press. I chose a different route. I got out the dremel with a cutoff wheel and cut the outside of the bearing off. The part with the little rollers in it. Once I cut through that I pryed it off with a flathead screwdriver, removed all the loose rollers and wiped the grease off the hub.
Now you are left with the steel center of the bearing still pressed on the hub. Break the dremel out again and very carefully cut it a little at a time until you are almost through to the stub part of the hub. Take care not to cut through to this part because you will have to reuse it. Once you think you have cut through enough take the hub and lock it in a vice. I used a small chisel and hit the part I cut a few times. If your cut is deep enough you will see the inner bearing start to move and it will eventually be able to come right off. If you don't understand this part or think you will cut too much go buy the correct tool or take the hub somewhere to get the bearing pressed off.
Now that the old bearings are out it's time to remove their outer races from the spindle. Again put this on a hard surface like the floor and take a chisel and you will see 4 indentions. Put your chisel on the indention and pound on all 4 evenly and you will see the outer race start to move. It helps here to have a buddy hold it from wondering all over the floor while you are knocking the race out. Here is a pic of the indention I am talking about, sorry about it being blurry.
Here is a pic of the outer races already knocked out.
Now it's time to press your new bearing onto the hub. First lube the seal and put it on making sure it goes on correctly. Now take the hub assembly over to the press. I used a piston from an old DSM brake caliper as my pressing tool. A very large socket or sturdy piece of pipe will work as well. Also be sure to pack the new bearing with wheel bearing grease. I also chose to put something under the front of the hub. This will keep the press from pressing your lugnut studs out.
Picture of the bearing pressed on. Be sure it goes on evenly and all the way down.
Next you need to press your new bearings outer races into the spindle. Your old races make excellent pressing tools to get the new ones in. Thanks to pma1123 for that tip. Be sure to press them in the right way also. They have a slight angle on them that is shaped like the bearing. I used a piece of 2 1/2" exhaust tubing along with the old races as pressing tools.
Race pressed in, again sorry about the blurry pic.
Now the new 92-95 Elantra rotor can be bolted onto the hub.
Next, grease the other bearing and slide the hub assembly into the spindle and press the other bearing on. Again be sure to press the bearing in correctly with the small end going toward the spindle. Once this is done lube the other seal and tap it in. I used a 1/4" extension to do this.
Well the hard part is over. Now it's time to bolt everything back up in the reverse order. Unless you destroyed the ball joint like I did. If so the lower arm will have to be removed from the car and the old one pressed out and new one pressed in. This is pretty simple so I'm not going to go in to detail here. Same thing with the outer tie-rod end. You loosen the hold down nut, screw the old one off and screw the new one on.
Once the spindle is back on the car put your DSM caliper bracket on along with the new brake pads. I just left the stock caliper hanging until now because once you disconnect the brake line brake fluid will leak out. Have your new caliper ready to go on and loosen the brake line, screw it into the DSM caliper and bolt the caliper back on and retighten it with a 17mm wrench. Bleed the system, put your wheel back on and pat yourself on the back for a job well done.
After this modification I noticed that my brake pedal is a little softer than before. This is due to the front calipers being much larger than stock, therefore needing more fluid. I have a set of stainless lines coming in soon that should stiffen the pedal back up a bit. I also plan to upgrade to the much larger brake booster, proportion valve and master cylinder from the 92-95 Hyundai Elantra. This setup will be able to push more fluid also. I will be sure to update as I change something. Hope you guys enjoy!
I just wanted to add that since I completed the install I have swapped over to the stainless brake lines and the Elantra M/C and prop. valve. This brought my pedal pressure back up to where it was with the stock braking system. The pedal was a little soft with the larger front calipers, stock lines and M/C. I highly reccommend upgrading the M/C and brake lines if anyone else is planning on upgrading their front brakes with the Elantra parts.